My prediction for 2008...

[Yasmeen]

We all do, but we're not going to tell you because we want you to wade through all 9 pages of this thread to find out, just like we did.

[the lurkist]

Sorry to deprive you all of my indispensable feed back but I went climbing today (hahahahahahahha- suckas!) (I get to climb on weekdays so seldom that I have to maximizes my enjoyment- thanks for your understanding).
regarding bad bolts- Caribe, it doesn't matter why a bolt fails, whether placed in bad rock or from metal failure. The point of this entire thread is that probably none of us can tell when a bolt is going to imminently fail. And very few of us (most of the folks reading this thread withstanding) have enough trepidation to worry about whether the bolt they are clipping is maybe even possibly going to fail. THAT is the problem.

I may be wrong about FRC and all of the threaded bolts (not routes with Rawl 5 piece- I think they are fine). I only know that the last time I did Eye of the Needle I felt like I was soloing. Those bolts looked like shit. Frugal Chariot, The Infidel, Go Easy Billy Clyde, Flashlight, Manic, Funkadelic, Red Hot Chili Pepper, Hardcore Jollies, all have those old school bolts.
Neal Strickland reminded me of a telling experience we had when we were putting in those bolts (which we bought a Lowe's in Winchester) back in the day. He said we should have had concerns about those bolts when we were putting them in and we would torque them a tad to much and the heads would snap off. This makes me shudder when I think of Terry's stories about re bolting Super Dario and having those bolts twist off under hand pressure with a 9 inch wrench. What can I say- we were stupid.
It is like someone's momma used to say when it came to making good decision, "If you have to think too long, think wrong." There has been a question about FRC (and other cliffs) for a while. FRC is the cliff that is problematic to service. I place a high priority on sleeping with a clean conscience, so my conclusion is to disable the questionable routes until a definitive fix can be had.
Yeah, I am probably over reacting. But, there is no more question that way.

[the lurkist]

OFFENSIVE CONTENT EDITED BY THE ADMINISTRATION

[Yasmeen]

Damn you, Hugh.

[Pru]

that better?

[Yasmeen]

Lol! That's perfect, darling, thank you!

[512OW]

Word to all of it.

If we by some miracle receive the permission to temporarily use power drills there, figure me in for $300.00

[anticlmber]

lets not forget chainsaw still has the original bolts. that one route gets as much traffic as all of FRC.

[caribe]

Facts:

1) FRC bolts in place since 1992-> 16 years.
2) Hugh & Wes are concerned about bolt quality.
3) Failures that we can come up with in the RED are rock-based. THere are only a few of those. Two of them appear to be sketchy initial placement.
----------------

Community Consensus Conclusions:

1) It does not matter how the anchor fails-bolt sheering or rock fracture. (illogical)
2) Chop the bolts now after 16 years. (this may make sense)

----------------

Personal Rethink

1) Hugh and Wes make some cogent points about the ease which some of the heads torque off the threaded bolts with a wrench.

2) I don't want to formulate any argument that leads to someone getting hurt. Here is where Hugh and Wes appear to be sitting. Erring on the side of caution is good enough for me.

3) Chop Chop . . .
4) I am there to help when its time for replacement.

This is me backing down.

[the lurkist]

Not chop, disable.