My prediction for 2008...

[Spragwa]

Perhaps the next clinic by the coalition should be a re-equipment clinic for an aging crag instead of a bolting clinic? That way people can see how much work it takes and maybe, just maybe, we can encourage some dedicated individual to take up wrench and their pocket books to assist the handful of people who are helping re-equip routes.

[Wes]

I would love to have a window to bring power drills to FRC, but I really, really think it will take more then a day, unless we have five or more drills going. So, a full weekend, or even a full week, would be best to ask for.

[ynot]

should it go back to the original developer? if a buster, porter, or hugh route needs new equipment, then they should be the ones doing it and paying for it? is it the responsibility of the original equipper to stay on top of his routes? if that person no longer climbs, then the route needs to be stripped, or then team suck comes to the rescue.
I hate to think of the day when my routes are in dire need. I might just pull the bolts instead, and let someone else rebolt it as a new and improved line. also, on routes in softer rock, should we consider the glueins with stainless hardware as the only replacement method?

I am with Wes..I have no idea how to visually tell when a bolt is gonna blow.

but now that caribe is the bank, I think I will open an ACH with Nat City.

Mention a bolt that looks shady to the person that placed it and you'll get a half hour ass chewing on why it's none of thier responsibility and fuck no they aren't going to replace it. At least that's what you would get from Terry. Johnny was a shade nicer about it but the result was the same, so no it doesn't go back to the bolter and never will. It's rock climbing you do it at your own risk and the bolter is never going to be held liable.
I'm up for helping drill holes at Funk rock or any other crag even if it's by hand. say when.

[512OW]

Not that this is ideal, but if a small window is all thats available (which seems stupid, but this is the FS we're dealing with), what would the harm be in replacing anchors and "key" bolts? The last bolt on the Infidel, for example.

Just curious if there is a rational problem with that theory that I haven't thought of.

[flip]

How long does it take to hand drill a bolt in sandstone?

[512OW]

Too long. Its taken me over an hour to drill a 4" deep hole by hand before. Then the hole is almost always bored out a little too big.

Its really just a pain in the ass, and not worth it. If thats the only option, I'd rather wait till someone gets hurt.

[Wes]

Too long. Its taken me over an hour to drill a 4" deep hole by hand before. Then the hole is almost always bored out a little too big.

Its really just a pain in the ass, and not worth it. If thats the only option, I'd rather wait till someone gets hurt.

Agree for sure. With a good power drill it still takes around an hour or more to re-bolt a route. Drilling 10+ holes by hand as well = maybe one route in a full day.

[512OW]

I could see doing one route in a full day if you were a fuckin machine.

Me, I'm soft and cuddly.

[512OW]

Kris seems like a clean-cut soft-spoken young man with the manners of an English gentleman. Once in a while we hear some slackness,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slackness
but his badness is way overrated.

Don't make me bust a cap in yo ass, caribe.

[flip]

I know you can replace bolt for bolt but how do the FS restrictions on bolts work for adding a bolted anchor to replace a rappel tree?

Yesterday I had to rap from a tree that was half dead and the roots pulled half way out of the ground when I weighted it.