My prediction for 2008...

[caribe]

Common thread....Porter's draw out bolts with threaded shafts.
If you wanna go see another bolt fail hang out at the base of Tacit this spring. Porter and Brian McCray were using Korean sleeve bolts for a time. These things were a bit better than draw out bolts from the first wave of bolting but a far cry from the proven bomberness of Rawl 5 piece bolts.

Let's replace them. I will pay full cost.

[caribe]

I have spent a stack on $$$ bolting and rebolting routes in the Red. I never asked anyone for "donations". My attitude about Weber's land is like 7 -Up, Never have, never will.

The Weber's don't have their hands out either. My point was that you are definitely indirectly benefiting from the presence of the Webers. I am talking about Philistines man! They are climbing with the Hittites and the Jebusites at Muir.

Most of us benefit indirectly because we climb there. Rick and Liz are better than cooked food! WTF reason can you possibly have for dogging them?

The bolt safety issue is at a minimum at Muir because Rick and Liz care. Think about it.

[pigsteak]

should it go back to the original developer? if a buster, porter, or hugh route needs new equipment, then they should be the ones doing it and paying for it? is it the responsibility of the original equipper to stay on top of his routes? if that person no longer climbs, then the route needs to be stripped, or then team suck comes to the rescue.
I hate to think of the day when my routes are in dire need. I might just pull the bolts instead, and let someone else rebolt it as a new and improved line. also, on routes in softer rock, should we consider the glueins with stainless hardware as the only replacement method?

I am with Wes..I have no idea how to visually tell when a bolt is gonna blow.

but now that caribe is the bank, I think I will open an ACH with Nat City.

[captain static]

Those routes need to be fixed. Capn Static? What say you?

My personal opinion is that FRC warrants a replacement effort. Because of the location in Clifty Wilderness the RRGCC could pursue the possibility of getting permission to use power drills. Shannon and I discussed this with the FS a while back and apparently there is a way to get special permission to use power equipment in a Wilderness. We would need to do everything in stainless for longevity.

If the climbing community thinks this should be a priority for the RRGCC (That is approaching the FS about getting permission to use power drills for rebolting at FRC) let us know here or better yet at the upcoming strategic planning meeting.

[caribe]

If the climbing community thinks this should be a priority for the RRGCC (That is approaching the FS about getting permission to use power drills for rebolting at FRC) let us know here or better yet at the upcoming strategic planning meeting.

F-ing A capt'n. There is no downside to approaching the FS about this. The biggest upside is widening the channel for dialog and collaboration. You or Shannon (probably you, sorry, due to your closer involvement with the RRGCC) are most qualified to do so. F meetings, let's do this.

[Shamis]

Yeah, I'd agree with caribe, just do whatever it takes to get a special exemption from the no power drilling for a few days to replace the bolts. I can't imagine many climbers here wouldn't agree with that, meeting or not.

[Shamis]

should it go back to the original developer? if a buster, porter, or hugh route needs new equipment, then they should be the ones doing it and paying for it? is it the responsibility of the original equipper to stay on top of his routes? if that person no longer climbs, then the route needs to be stripped, or then team suck comes to the rescue.
I hate to think of the day when my routes are in dire need. I might just pull the bolts instead, and let someone else rebolt it as a new and improved line. also, on routes in softer rock, should we consider the glueins with stainless hardware as the only replacement method?

If the original equipper either isn't around, or doesn't have the time/money/desire to maintain the routes, then maintenance obviously falls to the community that wants to keep climbing the routes. It seems foolish to think that every route setter is going to maintain all their routes. Who knows what they'll be doing in 5-10 years when the bolts need maintenance.

[Andrew]

I am guessing bob marley or motherlode. Lots of strong climbers falling all over the place, without a care in the world, and a belayer with lots of slack. And some really old bolts that have been fallen all over.

[Crankmas]

I don't think the FS is gonna be the issue there Sky pilot that Funk would involve but then thats spouting the obvious - oh the BURN

[512OW]

Yep, Captain... do it. I'd be happy to help out with a weekend of noise pollution at Funk Rock. I'll pony up some fundage as well. We could rebolt that whole crag in no time with the right people.

And theres a nice new line just waiting.....