How Long?

[Brentucky]

i like jr's breakdown and it pretty much nailed me on the head. i fumbled around outside a few times per year for a couple years and couldn't do over 5.9. then starting about last november i was lucky enough to befriend a few more of the "climbing types," got my own gear, and began going more consistently. in the past 6 months or so i pretty much get really pissed off if i don't get to climb AT LEAST once per week, and really more like twice per week. just a month ago i got my first 5.11b (didn't want something questionable) outside and i'm pumped to get some more this winter. i've just started a simple workout routine almost solely to improve my climbing and am gradually approaching the "obsessed" category. i remember back in the day some of my climbing friends wouldn't go snowboarding, etc. b/c they didn't want to "injure" themselves out of climbing... i'm still going snowboarding, but i do worry sometimes about playing frisbee golf b/c i might strain something!

i don't plan to ever be at the "maniacal" level, but i sure as shit hope that i keep enough of a NON-life to become a solid "obsessed"

[anticlmber]

He was trying to make an argument that climbing 5.12 wasn't necessarily a qualification to be a guide. My response was no it isn't a qualification, but how could someone climb that much in the Red and not climb 5.12?

i know you aren't talking about me lurek(if you are i was too stoned to remember) but the year i climbed the most in the gorge was a heavy guide season. when you spend 6hrs+/day twice or more a week you don't really feel like putting on a harness on a day off. same with route setting. also climbing 5.7-5.9 does not make you a 12 climber. i wish it did.

that said i like that people think a number decides if you are a gumby or not. i know more sketch ball "good" climbers than not. #s mean shit if you don't have hard skills to get out and about. what good does climbing 13 if you can't build an anchor at the top. if sport wanking is all you want great. but there is more to climbing than #s.

[anticlmber]

i guess what it comes down to is penis size. the smaller the dick the bigger the # desired.

[Andrew]

That explains Ashtrays passion, and why I am weighed down so much.

[ashtray]

That explains Ashtrays passion, and why I am weighed down so much.

andrew asked me to give him 8 inches and make it hurt. So I f**ked him twice then slapped him.

[anticlmber]

really lurk it sounds like you missed out on the lessons a group of great folks taught me. embrace the suckage. i did that and i climbed so much better because i climbed for fun.

[dipsi]

Of course, some people are terminally gumby and it just can't be helped.

But you love me anyway! You know you do!

[captain static]

I am a firm believer that much rides on the mental aspect including attidude, who you climb with, etc. As certified crust I remember when the first 5.10 was sent at Clifton Gorge. This was concurrent with the advent of EB's but it wasn't the shoes. A number of strong people had been working this route called "Roar". Then once one person had sent it, a bunch of people including myself sent it within a span of a few weeks.

Seeing other people do a route or move let's us see it can be done and maybee gives us ideas on how to do it. I think bouldering is helpful for quick progression partially because you get to see how different people do the same moves. Then you can try different things out and assimilate what works best for you in a given situation.

[Crankmas]

I agree Capt, each of JR's five insightful factors have a strong mental aspect, some holds you grab with your mind as much as your hands. Guess I'm just not right in the head. yet

[overhung]

I think alot is about staying uninjured. every time I start progressing I break or sprain something.

I prefer to wallow in mediocrity.