Route setting on a steep wall.

Post by **bcombs** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:14 pm

So, I plan on hitting my home bouldering wall alot more this winter. I have a 30 degree and 15 degree section that is two panels tall each. These are pretty easy to set routes on that are entertaining.

But, a few months back I added 4+ panels @ 55 degrees. I'm having trouble setting problems that aren't just jugs in a straight line to the top. Any suggestions on how to set on this type of terrain? Or, if you know of problems @ CT Cinci that I should take note of that would be cool.

Thanks!

Post by **Andrew** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:24 pm

Any of the problems Andrew set at climb time. Red, Green, Orange, Red, Blue, Brown, Green, Green, Caution, White, Black, Red, Green, White, Orange, Blue, Blue, or Black.

Post by **bcombs** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:29 pm

Andrew wrote:Any of the problems Andrew set at climb time. Red, Green, Orange, Red, Blue, Brown, Green, Green, Caution, White, Black, Red, Green, White, Orange, Blue, Blue, or Black.

Cool thanks, that narrows it down a bit.

Just so that I'm sure, is it Brown / Green & Green / Caution or Brown & Green / Green?

Post by **anticlmber** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:41 pm

the zig zag

hold

hold

hold

Post by **Wes** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:43 pm

Try to set the cruxes of routes you have done or of outdoor problems. Maybe not exactly, but use them for inspiration. On a steep wall, you can just use a bit bigger holds, more feet, etc. Force crossing moves and tricky foot work to train your core.

Post by **endercore** » Wed Dec 19, 2007 6:42 pm

i have trouble setting problems that I can't send in under five goes.
on my wall i just have a bunch of holds randomly thrown up, and then try to visualize things, and change individual holds as needed. It doesn't really work to to well. Any tips to get past this?

Post by JR » Fri Dec 28, 2007 1:29 pm

endercore wrote:i have trouble setting problems that I can't send in under five goes.
on my wall i just have a bunch of holds randomly thrown up, and then try to visualize things, and change individual holds as needed. It doesn't really work to to well. Any tips to get past this?

This works well for me.

1. Select holds that you are going to be able to hang on at the selected wall angle.
2. Start at the beginning. Get your shoes on. Put the first hold up and feel where that hold is leading you. Put the next hold in the area that felt natural. If you want it harder but it farther away. Repeat.
3. If you finish the route and you can still do it in under 5 tries use smaller feet or turn each hold till you can no longer do it so quickly.

Keep in mind difficulty is mostly measured and felt in two ways. Distance between holds and size of holds.