New Comer

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
charitycase
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 10:41 am

New Comer

Post by charitycase »

Went to the gorge for the first time in January this year. Instantly fell in love, camped out in a cave during an ice storm, returned in better weather and we hiked. The satisfation of reaching the top was unbelievable. We came across some climbers and I became fascinated. I want to learn. Havent been able to stop thinking of it but I dont know anyone who can begin to tell me where to start. Nor do I know anyone who wants to join me. Can someone give me an idea of how to begin? Thank you kindly!
User avatar
Josephine
Posts: 2216
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:38 pm

Post by Josephine »

Contact Red River Outdoors for guide service. best way to learn
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun
Shamis
Posts: 1343
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:11 pm

Post by Shamis »

Read "How to rock climb" by john long. And go to a gym until you can get up a 5.9. Then find somebody to take you outside.
captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

What I would suggest, especially at this time of year, is to go north. Across the river to one or both of the Ohio indoor rock climbing gyms, RockQuest or Climb Time. Since you don't have anyone to climb with Climb Time would be a good start because the main focus is bouldering which doesn't require a partner. To climb at the Gorge you will eventually need to learn how to lead climb. RockQuest has a lead wall and lead climbing instruction. Both are good places to meet other climbers and look for partners.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
User avatar
Josephine
Posts: 2216
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:38 pm

Post by Josephine »

Shamis wrote: And go to a gym until you can get up a 5.9. Then find somebody to take you outside.
i would like to respectfully disagree. i climbed outside for at least 6 months before i could get up a 5.9 on TR w/o a power belay - and there are still plenty of 5.9's i'm not ready/willing to lead a year later. i'm not sure why 5.9 would be the magic number - why not 5.8 or 5.10? or maybe no one should climb outside untill they can at least TR 5.11/5.12 since those are the best routes in the gorge according to another thread.

then again, i'm completely biased - i think outdoor climbing can be enjoyed by people of all skill levels.

gyms are very helpful. good place to meet people and learn and find people to introduce you to climbing outside. but i still think you can't go wrong hiring a knowledgeable guide to teach you the basics. friends are great - but just because someone is an exceptional climber/friend does not make them an exceptional teacher.
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun
Horatio Felacio
Posts: 3338
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm

Post by Horatio Felacio »

just go buy the all the gear (rope, harness, 10 quickdraws of any brand, a locking carabiner, and a gri gri) and read the 'how to rock climb' book. get one of your friends in on the bandwagon too...then head out to muir valley and just go lead some of the easy routes there. bring the 'how to rock climb' book with you, just to make sure you're about to do everything right. as long as you follow the directions, it's just like cooking! have fun!
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
pawilkes
Posts: 1570
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 5:45 am

Post by pawilkes »

A) don't listen to anything that Horatio says
B) don't listen to most of what others say, including myself
C) go the the gym, hire a guide. once you've done that a few times and can climb reasonably well, go to miguel's meet up with a bunch of other newbies and try not to die when you go climbing
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.
Shamis
Posts: 1343
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:11 pm

Post by Shamis »

Josephine wrote:
Shamis wrote: And go to a gym until you can get up a 5.9. Then find somebody to take you outside.
i would like to respectfully disagree. i climbed outside for at least 6 months before i could get up a 5.9 on TR w/o a power belay - and there are still plenty of 5.9's i'm not ready/willing to lead a year later. i'm not sure why 5.9 would be the magic number - why not 5.8 or 5.10? or maybe no one should climb outside untill they can at least TR 5.11/5.12 since those are the best routes in the gorge according to another thread.

then again, i'm completely biased - i think outdoor climbing can be enjoyed by people of all skill levels.

gyms are very helpful. good place to meet people and learn and find people to introduce you to climbing outside. but i still think you can't go wrong hiring a knowledgeable guide to teach you the basics. friends are great - but just because someone is an exceptional climber/friend does not make them an exceptional teacher.
5.5 climbing outside is tons of fun if you're at the gunks. But this is the red. If you can't climb 5.9, your choices are very very slim, unless you do trad, which typically isn't how the noobs start.
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Are you a bit, um, slow? Just how many of those 5.5's at the gunks are sport routes? These days, the red has a pretty good number of easier sport lines, which may not be three star classic's, are at least a way to get started.
Shamis wrote: 5.5 climbing outside is tons of fun if you're at the gunks. But this is the red. If you can't climb 5.9, your choices are very very slim, unless you do trad, which typically isn't how the noobs start.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
charitycase
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 10:41 am

Post by charitycase »

captain static, Thank you so much for your help. I did check out the websites for both places the other day and I am definitely going to get some instruction. Thats awesome that you're familiar with those places. I checked out your pics. The whole scene is so appealing to me.
Post Reply