J-Tree the week after X-Mas

[bcombs]

So, I thought I would post here before going to RC.com because the clowns over there are just going to say "Brah, if you aren't bouldering V9 or higher then stay home", so here it goes...

I'm headed to LA the week after X-mas to visit family. I'm going to have two days to visit J-Tree. The first day will be just me bouldering. V5 is around my limit. Anyone have any suggestions on areas to visit? Lots of V0 to V3 would be cool.

The second day I'm going to be taking some non-climbers for a day long flail fest. So, I need to get on some easy sport (5.7 to maybe 5.10a) so they can actually enjoy it. They are physically fit but non-climbers. Any suggestions there?

I found the Dr. Topo for bouldering so that's a good start, and there is some info on RC.com that I can use. I'm mostly wanting to nail down the day out with the family since it will be screaming kids, barking dogs, and alot of power belaying. So, if there is an out of the way area I'm up for that too.

Thanks,
Brad

[Buster]

The bouldering like the good routes are spread out. There is no real good single spot. Don't miss Pigpen as far as good boulder problems go. Gunsmoke is pretty cool too.
Don't bother with trying to find easy sport routes. They don't exist. There are stacks of bitchin trad routes in that grade though. Your beginners won't know the difference. Do Double Cross or something like that.

[bcombs]

...Don't bother with trying to find easy sport routes. They don't exist. There are stacks of bitchin trad routes in that grade though. Your beginners won't know the difference. Do Double Cross or something like that.

That's a good point, I wasn't planning on taking the rack but I guess I could. Thanks for the suggestion.

[neuroshock]

ditto what Buster said. Gunsmoke area has a few classics like Chube (V2), Gunsmoke Traverse (V3) and High Noon (V5) all within the range you asked for. The area will probably have a few other climbers there so you could grab a spot and have extra pads if needed.

As for the barking dogs thing, just as a heads up: http://www.nps.gov/archive/jotr/manage/dogs/dogs.html

and from http://www.nps.gov/jotr/faqs.htm
Q: May I bring my dog to the park?
A: While pets are allowed in the park, their activities are restricted. They must be on a leash at all times and cannot be more than 100 feet from a road, picnic area, or campground; they are prohibited from trails, and they must never be left unattended—not even in a vehicle.

[bcombs]

...As for the barking dogs thing, just as a heads up: http://www.nps.gov/archive/jotr/manage/dogs/dogs.html

I'm actually not taking any dogs, I just added that in since the typical component in the "annoying group with kids, etc..." is that fido is at the cliff too going nuts. I'm not making fun, often I am that group, but I am at least aware of it.

So, let me adjust the query. I'm going to take the rack, any areas that folks can suggest with multiple moderate lines (read easy since I'm a trad sissy). So, 5.7 to 5.9+.

Thanks!

[reospeed]

Gunsmoke is spectacular. V3 75 ft long traverse. It's fun for beginners to play on too.

Head's up about the Dr. Topo bouldering guide. It's almost useless in Jtree. It's hard to find anything. There is a super good bouldering guide book that you'd probably be able to pick up in cali...

Southwest arete on something called the headstone by ryan campground is a 5.7 sport route. It's not bad. Beginning is a bit run out... It's hard to toprope...you probably would want to belay from the top. Walk on the Wild side is another one. It's a different route to read and is actually 3 pitches. You can set up top ropes in some areas...such as thin wall...that's in the real hidden valley.

Moderate trad routes: Old Woman face right by Hidden Valley...there are some FUN 5.7's......a 5.8, and a 5.9 I believe...(dog leg double cross and the orphan and one or two other super classics are there) and then right across the road is Intersection rock. There's a couple classic easy ones over there too.

[truello]

I bought gps coordinate book for Joshua Tree (for a trip I had to cancel). If you have a car or handheld GPS unit and would like coords for any of the climbs I'd be happy to supply them.

[anticlmber]

hidden valley campground has good routes and problems. trash can rock is a quick easy spot for TRs.

for bouldering check out the HV campground inside and outback of it. white rasta is back there, fantastic. the lynx boulders are across from the campground and have alot of fun stuff, past them is the asteroid belt. good stuff. gunsmoke area is alright.

[Shamis]

pick up the bouldering guide book at the climbing store right near the entrence to the park.

There is a really cool remote bouldering area. HIdden garden or something. Lots of cool stuff, but usually with hard landings, bring lots of pads

Also, most of the boulder ratings are stout. v3 often feels like v5.

[anticlmber]

i was going to say that but if you haven't been it's a nice slap in the face.