Variations

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

Link-ups and Variations?

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der uber
Posts: 1044
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 2:42 am

Post by der uber »

Linking up a few routes sounds like fun. It's good, as long as the line is good. If it becomes contrived, then it might not be so good.

My concern would be about tying up 2-4 lines that are popular when there are other people there who want on them.

One of these days, I shall attempt the heinous link-up of chainsaw and ale-8.
ATLdude
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed May 21, 2003 6:41 pm

Post by ATLdude »

linkups and variations??... WTF are we in Utah???
mcrib
Posts: 1096
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:17 pm

Post by mcrib »

don't like them don't climb them is that simple. Oh and Andrew I am ashamed that we share a name next time I see you I am gonna sew your asshole shut and feed you laxatives.
"I just want to disappear"
bordn21
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Mar 29, 2007 8:52 am

Post by bordn21 »

I say I wouldn't mind to have a bunch of link-ups noted as routes. Why not, we see them elsewhere around the country. The Euros do it, so who cares if someone wants to note a link up, I'd climb it. Hell let's link up Chainsaw and Ale-8, sounds F'n fun. I say link it up yo!! Yo, what's wrong with Utah dude?!!!
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

How about Chainsaw town, or 40 ounces of transworld.

I am going to do the link up of You can tune a piano but you cant tune a campsight.

Valor over chickenhead
Living the dream
JR
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

Post by JR »

It looks like More Bolt=More Fun is in the lead. Interesting.

All these options were my initial reactions to Mike Doyle bolting an extension and a variation on Head and Shoulders at Drive-By. I am a big fan of Mike's accomplishments at the Red and far be it for me to criticize his handy work. I just don't think adding bolts to an existing route warrants two new entries in the guide. I would suggest something more in line with what we have done in the past, like noting that a variation and extension do exist on Head and Shoulders ala Nevermore at Raven Rock.
gregkerzhner
Posts: 171
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2005 12:09 pm

Post by gregkerzhner »

The red does not need variations. The best thing about this place is the purity of the lines. Climbing one route into the other is okay, but as long as no extra bolts are added. When we start slapping in random bolts between routes, we lose the purity. Look at maple canyon for example.

http://www.viamontgear.com/images/postc ... 0(110).htm
Things to note
1. There are like 5 quickdraws I could clip around me.
2. The whole thing is a piece of choss
3. I am wearing two kneepads, and they are ducktaped on for god's sake!

First varations, then kneepads, next thing you know, we will be bouldering!
Image
Last edited by gregkerzhner on Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
JR
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

Post by JR »

pigsteak wrote: Since when did the word "points" become part of the climber's lexicon?
The minute John Gill or whoever decided to grade shit. B1,B2,5.10,5.12,v5,v10,8a It is all just ground work for spray. This is just a part of an evolving elaborate system of oneupsmanship.
I get to dictate to all mankind where the route begins and ends. By placing bolts at select places, I get to dictate when/where folks rest on a route, thereby breaking up the flow of movement. If I want to spark your adrenaline, I get the option of placing runouts on the line. if I want you to bitch, I get to bolt choss (my favorite). I get to name a silly piece of rock with some witty two words that makes a person roll their eyes or scratch their heads. Playing bolt gawd is fun.


For better or worse. But can't other people play god with your routes(moving bolts, adding variation etc.)?
Does that make the harder version of Table ghey? Since the original version came in from the right, isn't the left start the same as a link up?
Variation.
What if I decide to hog an entire wall and put up a line that sweeps 45 degrees across the wall, am I a visionary or have I ruined the potential for three other lines?
You could never spoil the opportunity for grid bolting by bolting
To link or not to link...one more rule for the sport that used to place a premium on non-conformity and freedom.
S.C.I.N.
I care about numbers, redpoints, being listed as a FA, climbing 5.13a, ticklists, stick clipping, tick marks.
We drink from the same urinal.
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

Greg said what I said, and you pic doesn't work greg.

try this link

http://www.viamontgear.com/images/postc ... 0(110).htm
Living the dream
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

dang it I suck too. We don't want whats in the pic. Link ups and variations are dumb.
Living the dream
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