What happened to 50 words for pump?

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
JB
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Post by JB »

Today, after several outraged PMs from forum users about altering Jump For Joy(5.9), I removed the bolts from Leap for Mild Pleasure (5.8+) completely and moved the line to the right. I've renamed it Mother (5.6) in honor of Paul Vidal.
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]
Andrew
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Post by Andrew »

I all of a sudden understand what Greg is saying. When I heard that the 4th on 50 bucks was moved to "follow the line of least resistance" I was kind of pissed. Even though I agree that the bolting at the begining of the route sucks, I don't think that the line of least resistance was to the right.

I think the line of least resistance was in line with the fourth bolt, and going out right was harder. So my question is, whose line of least resistance? A weak enduro climber, or a powerful gym monkey who can't climb more than 12 feet at a time.

Everyone pre clipped that thing anyway, except me, so the grade should have been 12c all along with no need to move it. I always said that the route was 12c as it was, but since you have moved the bolt into harder climbing,(contrived if you ask me) I think it should get upgraded to 13a. Either way I only get credit for 12c.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

Settle down there cowboy. The bolt is in the middle now. It can be clipped easier now for the right and easier as well for the left (your way). "Line of least resistance" is only a phrase I use to describe the pockets that go out right.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

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Andrew
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Post by Andrew »

So that means you fit into the weak enduro category.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

No, I fit into the "I climb outside" category. Go back to your bouldering comps plastic boy.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

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bcombs
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Post by bcombs »

Image
Andrew
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Post by Andrew »

I was being nice in my PM's to you, but I am coming over to your garage to beat your ass in your own house.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

You would get spanked on my problems. They involve more than just 4 foot throws to full pad crimps.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

Pictures for Andrew since he has trouble with these complex visualization routines.

This picture shows where the bolt was moved from on 50 Bucks. As you can see, people will no longer have to climb left to clip then back right to make the move. The left beta is for super tall people like Andrew. The bolt still protects that way too. I may be a little off on this picture.


<img src="http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... 365"></img>
Last edited by SCIN on Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
mcrib
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Post by mcrib »

it is funny because all Andrew does is bitch. Tall people have a harder time climbing, moving bolts on said route is for people with endurance not for power. stick to the pink route in your gym you homo
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