What happened to 50 words for pump?

Post by JB » Sun Nov 25, 2007 7:38 pm

Today, after several outraged PMs from forum users about altering Jump For Joy(5.9), I removed the bolts from Leap for Mild Pleasure (5.8+) completely and moved the line to the right. I've renamed it Mother (5.6) in honor of Paul Vidal.

Post by **Andrew** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 9:36 pm

I all of a sudden understand what Greg is saying. When I heard that the 4th on 50 bucks was moved to "follow the line of least resistance" I was kind of pissed. Even though I agree that the bolting at the begining of the route sucks, I don't think that the line of least resistance was to the right.

I think the line of least resistance was in line with the fourth bolt, and going out right was harder. So my question is, whose line of least resistance? A weak enduro climber, or a powerful gym monkey who can't climb more than 12 feet at a time.

Everyone pre clipped that thing anyway, except me, so the grade should have been 12c all along with no need to move it. I always said that the route was 12c as it was, but since you have moved the bolt into harder climbing,(contrived if you ask me) I think it should get upgraded to 13a. Either way I only get credit for 12c.

Post by **SCIN** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 9:45 pm

Settle down there cowboy. The bolt is in the middle now. It can be clipped easier now for the right and easier as well for the left (your way). "Line of least resistance" is only a phrase I use to describe the pockets that go out right.

Post by **Andrew** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 9:56 pm

So that means you fit into the weak enduro category.

Post by **SCIN** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 9:58 pm

No, I fit into the "I climb outside" category. Go back to your bouldering comps plastic boy.

Post by **bcombs** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 10:01 pm

Post by **Andrew** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 10:01 pm

I was being nice in my PM's to you, but I am coming over to your garage to beat your ass in your own house.

Post by **SCIN** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 10:03 pm

You would get spanked on my problems. They involve more than just 4 foot throws to full pad crimps.

Post by **SCIN** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 10:20 pm

Pictures for Andrew since he has trouble with these complex visualization routines.

This picture shows where the bolt was moved from on 50 Bucks. As you can see, people will no longer have to climb left to clip then back right to make the move. The left beta is for super tall people like Andrew. The bolt still protects that way too. I may be a little off on this picture.

<img src="http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... 365"></img>

Post by **mcrib** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:36 am

it is funny because all Andrew does is bitch. Tall people have a harder time climbing, moving bolts on said route is for people with endurance not for power. stick to the pink route in your gym you homo