What routes are easier if you are short

Post by **rjackson** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:17 am

Short Man's Complex They (we) just have to try harder. And the shorter the person, the more they try to over-compensate. IE: Napoleon.

And by the way, what constitutes a short climber? Below 6', below 5' 9", below 5' 6"?

Post by **Wes** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:28 am

If you are short, you just have to develop different strengths and abilities from taller people. Flexibility is key, as being able to high step to your chest can be more helpful then an extra few inches of reach. And, there are a few place where being shorter can be helpful, as shorter people can get their feet set up better sometimes. I think the red is a good place for shorter people, as there are other holds and beta that can be used. But someplace like the new, I always feel like being taller would really help.

Post by **the lurkist** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:37 am

Thirsting Skull was always way harder for me. I had to fold myself up into those crux moves. It always pushed me out into space. Many folks said that they could run laps on the Skull, but for me I climbed 13a before I did it.

Post by **mcrib** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:33 am

It is because you were scared to clip the bolt at the crux when it was at your ankles isn't it.

Post by **rjackson** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:59 pm

You may be 'safer' from falling debris (including, but not limited to, livestock) at Lady Slipper, if you're shorter (and stay tucked into to the wall).

Post by **anticlmber** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:10 pm

you suck because the air is thinner at your altitude andrew.

or you suck because you suck. face facts/

Post by **the lurkist** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 5:32 pm

It sucks to suck.

Post by **TankAzz** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 12:31 am

can't even believe we are having this debate.... sooo many moves are easier if you are tall. allah can skip cruxes on routes or boulder problems that i have to work hours on!
i think smaller people just get more practice on crappy holds so they learn to improvise. then, later on when the only holds available are crappy, the shorter people know how to use them. requires a lot more body tension....
i get so pissed when tall, oafy guys set routes or problems they just fly up, despite lack of technique, because they have a long reach.

not that you are an oaf, andrew... you possess that perfect blend of height and finesse that allows you to float like poetry in motion up the rock

Post by **Andrew** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 8:12 am

So here is some truth.

I will sometimes come off a route and the first thing I say is "that was probably easier if your tall". But I have never heard anyone say "that route was probably easier because I am short", even though many of the routes at the red, almost any overhanging jug hall, is easier if you are short because there are plenty of holds, feet, and your leverage, and weight is significantly in your advantage.

This is just like when people do a route that has a hold that has broken that makes it harder. They will say, "I did that route after the hold broke". But if a person does a route after a hold broke that made it easier there is almost no mention of such things.

Short people are hypocrits, and one of gods funny jokes. 8)

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Nov 15, 2007 9:09 am

There's no doubt in my mind that you can crank better at the Red if you're shorter. You can climb rolled up like a little squatty ball of power, feet all up in the crotch and stuff, using feet up by your hands. I've seen Andrew try to climb an overhanging enduro haul. It was painful trying to see him get his legs up in the kneebars. An even more painful experience was seeing Lurk try to climb the problems in my gym. They're all squatty too. He looked like a cricket trying to hump a beetle.