Why does Wes suck at granite bouldering?

Post by **tomdarch** » Fri Jul 11, 2003 6:35 pm

It's all that humping that's holding you back!

Seriously, though, where are you? (Vedawoo?)

I did so-so bouldering in Yosemite valley (except for mantle problems!), but I got stomped hard in J-Tree! The stuff in Yosemite was more about edges, but the wierd friction stuff in J-Tree was really hard to adapt to.

What sort of problems are you working on?

Post by **tonybubb** » Sat Jul 12, 2003 12:01 am

I came fromt eh red and moved here. Adjusting to Eldo was hard- I had to get used to teh idea that small square edges will not necessarily break off, then I started using them and the climbing got easier. Now this is home and it's where I do best.
Then came Lumpy ridge, mome of friction and flares there are no edges there... smedges more like, but nothing's square. I tried to do the headwall above J-crack. I was up there trying to figure it out, not trusting my feet and pulling like crazy on flakes when one ripped off in my hands and went back behand me- the climb had felt so hard... and now I was... and now I was just standing there with my feet on holds I wasn't weighting, sitting there with no hands, relaxed...
The point being, you probably have not learned to use the advantages that rock has to offer, and until you do, you will be doing it all the hard way.
Lumpy is about trusting flaring locks and sloper feet.

J-tree is all about pasting your feet onto nothing but the wall.

Vedauvoo is about ignoring the fact that your ankles look like hamburger because you'r a stinkin homo sportclimber gettin' humped by everybody on this site and you thought that it was "OK" to wear low-tops there.

Sheesh...

Post by **Wes** » Mon Jul 14, 2003 4:22 pm

There are a few pretty nice granite boulders in Sinks Canyon. They stay nice and cool while the main walls are baking, so I have been bouldering there more then the sport climbing.

All of the above is the best answer, but after getting some key beta, I sent most of the problems that were giving me trouble. Some subtle foot stuff, and using new sequences was the key.

Hanging out here for another week or so, then off to the Tetons.

Wes

Post by **ynot** » Mon Jul 14, 2003 11:26 pm

Sounds like a happy camper to me. Wish I was on an extended climbing sebatical.
So how is Mia doing at the ranch? And where the heck is Merrick? Its like people dissapearing around here.

Post by **Gretchen** » Tue Jul 15, 2003 3:26 pm

No doubt!

Post by **MiaRock** » Mon Aug 11, 2003 4:24 pm

I'm is doing well on the ranch and going climbing with merrick tomorrow!

I haven't been able to climb much, I'm busy working plus i injured my finger while climbing in Lander a few weeks ago. I'm jonesing for that kentucky sandstone though and plan to be back either in October or January depending on if I spend a few months in Bishop.

Mia

Post by **Gretchen** » Mon Aug 11, 2003 5:15 pm

Hey Mia! Glad to see you still kicking!!! That's awesome that you get to climb w/Merrick tomorrow. Say Hi for me. What else is new with you?? Tell us all about life on the Ranch!

Post by **ynot** » Mon Aug 11, 2003 10:36 pm

Welcome home Wes.

Post by **kentuckysarah** » Tue Aug 12, 2003 3:48 pm

Yeah, welcome home. It was nice to meet you

Post by **merrick** » Tue Aug 19, 2003 9:47 am

climbing with mia was fun. bouldercity had bad landings but was pretty good for granite bouldering. still the best granite bouldering i have seen yet is the druid stones. maybe squamish will change my opinion.

i miss y'all and promise to come south for the fall. let me know when the weather is good.

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Why does Wes suck at granite bouldering?

Why does Wes suck at granite bouldering?

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