The Judge is in the house! (or the return of peer review)

[ashtray]

asdf

[rhunt]

LOL I too applaud Da Judge and his efforts. This is the best thread ever!

[Wes]

There way more crappy routes out there now then there were 5 years ago, of this there is no doubt about that. There is also way, way more mid-510 and under routes, and esp. more 5.9 and under routes. Just the nature of the rrg is that there are not many options for routes of that grade, so we just kinda have to take what the rock gives. Bolt them all, and let the beginners sort them out! Now, if you are bolting crapy 12's, then you could maybe better spend your time, as I think there are still plenty of routes at that grade to get done.

And, I do think that the stars are being given out a bit more freely then in the past, but a lot of that has to do with so many new routes and with the developers have a bigger say in how many stars a route gets. But, you can still usually tell choss from the ground!

[Buster]

There way more crappy routes out there now then there were 5 years ago, of this there is no doubt about that. There is also way, way more mid-510 and under routes, and esp. more 5.9 and under routes. Just the nature of the rrg is that there are not many options for routes of that grade, so we just kinda have to take what the rock gives. Bolt them all, and let the beginners sort them out! Now, if you are bolting crapy 12's, then you could maybe better spend your time, as I think there are still plenty of routes at that grade to get done.

And, I do think that the stars are being given out a bit more freely then in the past, but a lot of that has to do with so many new routes and with the developers have a bigger say in how many stars a route gets. But, you can still usually tell choss from the ground!

For realz? The developers get to say how many stars their routes get? That's retarded.

[Andrew]

I finally agree with Busted. There is no way that developers should be able to put a star rating on their own routes.

[SCIN]

There way more crappy routes out there now then there were 5 years ago, of this there is no doubt about that. There is also way, way more mid-510 and under routes, and esp. more 5.9 and under routes. Just the nature of the rrg is that there are not many options for routes of that grade, so we just kinda have to take what the rock gives. Bolt them all, and let the beginners sort them out! Now, if you are bolting crapy 12's, then you could maybe better spend your time, as I think there are still plenty of routes at that grade to get done.

And, I do think that the stars are being given out a bit more freely then in the past, but a lot of that has to do with so many new routes and with the developers have a bigger say in how many stars a route gets. But, you can still usually tell choss from the ground!

For realz? The developers get to say how many stars their routes get? That's retarded.

When we get info from a developer about a new line we usually don't even pay attention to how many stars we give it before plugging it into the online guide. For awhile the default was 3 stars because that's what my program set it to. Over time, the stars are adjusted according to what people think of it. When press time comes I use the consensus and my own opinion to adjust the stars. If I don't get a chance to check out the line and nobody has voted on it then I usually drop it a star from what the developer gave me (if I still have that original information). I think this is a better method than if I just used my own opinion or the developer's opinion.

Let's not start any rumors now peeps.

The first edition of the guide did have some over inflated star ratings on a lot of Muir lines because I plugged the info I got straight from Jared into the guidebook during crunch time. Those stars have now been adjusted in the second edition.

[SCIN]

but every once in a while i get sandbagged by the 4 stars that some heaping pile gets in the guide.

For some reason I find pleasure in this thought.

[ashtray]

asdf

[Horatio Felacio]

fuck you ray and your fucking shell oil "the man" fucking osama fucking buddhist terrorrist motherfucking guidebook.

[Pru]

Judge, I hope you really mean it and aren't just some anonymous pussy spraying bullshit on the intardweb. Unlike Ashtray, I AM a hater. I look forward to the ensuing flame wars. Something needs to get and keep my interest.