electric cowboy

Post by **bcombs** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 6:58 pm

Yep, count me in too Matt. I get plenty of use out of the routes back there.

Post by JR » Mon Oct 29, 2007 12:21 pm

Can someone explain exactly why the chains at the top of Bedtime carved those groves. I doesn't seem to make sense to me. I actually though pulling the rope over the edge would be worse. Clearly it is not true. But why?

This situation is a bit of a Catch 22. On one hand you want to have safe anchors that don't rub your rope or the rock the wrong way. On the other hand I think it is cool to force people to top out to send the climb.

Post by **absolutsugarsmurf** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 10:06 am

I didn't have to top out to send the climb. Just a reach around the lip to grab a ratty pile of slings. So maybe not a cathch 22. Are others topping out on EC for the send?

What is the opinion of the cable anchors that are sometimes used in Muir? I don't have a lot of experience with them, but a braided steel line sheathed in plastic would definately work to minimize abrasion of the rock.

Yes, I've seen webbing wear into rock at places that have soft sandstone like arches np and canyonlands.

Post by **Steve** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 2:10 pm

[quote="absolutsugarsmurf"]What is the opinion of the cable anchors that are sometimes used in Muir? I don't have a lot of experience with them, but a braided steel line sheathed in plastic would definately work to minimize abrasion of the rock.[quote]

I hate cable anchors.

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 3:17 pm

steve,

personal preference or did you have an event with them?

I have never installed any of those cables, and can't say I like them either.

Post by **Wes** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 3:48 pm

Electric cowboy could use some love for sure, along with just about every other bolt out 9a. As long as the anchors are kinda close to the lip, the route shouldn't change that much. As a side note, it isn't always possible to maintain the original route exactly when replacing hardware.

Post by JR » Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:24 am

Wes wrote: As long as the anchors are kinda close to the lip, the route shouldn't change that much. As a side note, it isn't always possible to maintain the original route exactly when replacing hardware.

Good point Wes. But you can always try a little. Best intentions make us do weird things sometimes.

Post by JR » Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:29 am

absolutsugarsmurf wrote:I didn't have to top out to send the climb. Just a reach around the lip to grab a ratty pile of slings. So maybe not a cathch 22. Are others topping out on EC for the send?

I love it. It is definitely not a Catch 22 for you. It is all good. Hell I will grab a tree to top out and what do you know. That is the anchor.

Post by **Wes** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 12:44 pm

Yep, it is a tricky balance sometimes, but, I also don't think a bolt placement should be somehow sacred as well. So, if it works out that a different type of anchor, or a little bit different placement seems better, then I am OK with it. Rather then trying to force the same thing, or use new cold shuts to replace old cold shuts, sometimes a change is best.

JR wrote:
Wes wrote: As long as the anchors are kinda close to the lip, the route shouldn't change that much. As a side note, it isn't always possible to maintain the original route exactly when replacing hardware.
Good point Wes. But you can always try a little. Best intentions make us do weird things sometimes.