Paradise Lost

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

someone help me here..I seem to have missed the fun...

kenny has a route that he sent without using a ledge. right? but others are now using the ledge to rest, and therefore making the route easier. what is the problem..if the ledge is now being used, it is silly to say it is "off"....just give it the easiest grade that it goes at. only fools intentionally make a route harder than it is...line of least resistance, or something like that.

or I like the dynamite idea.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

also, can the FA be the only one to change a rating, up or down? that also, is stupid.

consensus should rule, not some archaic masochist rating routes.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
rhunt
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm

Post by rhunt »

someone give pigsteak a clue, I seem to have run out. Oh dah pigsteak, elimate routes are all the rage, its the future, were talking 5.16 here. "Line of least resistance" is so 2001. dah. :roll:
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
tomdarch
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Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2002 9:22 pm

Post by tomdarch »

Dynamite isn't the only answer - a 'high-tech' solution might be to put a huge, sloping glob of slippery epoxy on the ledge, or, a 'low tech' solution would be to mount tall, sharp spikes on the ledge - just like the spikes used to keep pigeons off of things!
Bacon is meat candy.
Spragwa
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 4:05 pm

Post by Spragwa »

I cannot believe Allah hasn't posted in this thread...
Jesus only knows that she tries too hard. She's only trying to keep the sky from falling.

-Everlast
Toy
Posts: 292
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 9:16 pm

Post by Toy »

Forget about the grade. I propose the name be changed to Knowledge or "Naw- ledge".

Climber: "Where do I go once I get to the arete? Should I step down to get a better rest?"

Backwoods Belayer: "Naw ledge! That thar is cheatin"
JR
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Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

Post by JR »

pigsteak wrote:
kenny has a route that he sent without using a ledge. right? but others are now using the ledge to rest, and therefore making the route easier. what is the problem..if the ledge is now being used, it is silly to say it is "off"....just give it the easiest grade that it goes at. only fools intentionally make a route harder than it is...line of least resistance, or something like that.
Agreed
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ynot
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

Line of least resistance given that you aren't adding bolts to a runout or otherwise changing the style of the FA. I don't know,there's too many funky rules and grey areas about climbing anymore. I figure as long as Mr Day isn't laughing at me I'm doing OK. We should just have a non climber arbitrate all the squabbles on here.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
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ynot
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

Where the hell is Uncle big Green these days? we need his opinion too. kinda dissapeared from round here.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
Power2U
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:18 pm

Post by Power2U »

Look at the picture... you can't even remotely touch the line you are climbing / clip a bolt from the ledge... OFF ROUTE!

I vote for dynamite :)
Lest we all forget... climbing is a mostly meaningless pursuit that we do for fun.
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