There are definitely some mysteries in the guide that I noticed after the fact. Especially all the grade changes at the Lode. I had nothing to do with that. Hell, I haven't even climbed the lines that had their grades changed! Some people proofed the first edition and I think they changed the grades and may have changed the FA of Swahili too. I definitely could've fat fingered the Swahili FA but no way in hell did I downgrade all of those 13s.Buster wrote:Dude, it's all good. Your book is just awesome! There is no avoiding things like this.SCIN wrote:Wish I'd known about it before now.Buster wrote:Not to worry, Rib. You haven't pissed me off, I still love you...
Martone might have been tweaked about it but the fact remains...
And another thing, Swahili Slang is not Moll's route. Brian McCray bolted and sent FA. He is prolly super bummed about the disinformation in the new guide. I know for a fact that he was super proud of that liine.
American Dream
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
-Horatio
Try as I might, I can't be a dickhead all the time.pigsteak wrote:OK, now Buster is kissing ass. I take back my vote. SCIN for Prez....Buster for Vice Fluffer.
'Darling, may I please be excused for a moment?
I have to shake hands with a very dear friend of mine, whom I hope to introduce you to after dinner.'
The polite way to excuse yourself and take a piss.
I have to shake hands with a very dear friend of mine, whom I hope to introduce you to after dinner.'
The polite way to excuse yourself and take a piss.
I have never been to an area that required stick clips like the red does. I can think of a lot of routes I've been on recently that assume a stick clip because the crux moves are before the first bolt which is 12+ feet up.
Previously I've been to lots of places where the first bolt would often be high up, but only when the climbing at the bottom was under the grade of the climb. So if I 5.12 had some 5.10 face moves at the bottom, the bolt might be high up, but if it had 5.11d moves at the bottom, then there would be a bolt.
Previously I've been to lots of places where the first bolt would often be high up, but only when the climbing at the bottom was under the grade of the climb. So if I 5.12 had some 5.10 face moves at the bottom, the bolt might be high up, but if it had 5.11d moves at the bottom, then there would be a bolt.
