American Dream
American Dream
This past weekend at the darkside there were some people complaining that there wasnt a bolt lower than the first bolt. People were suggesting putting one in. What is everyone's opinion on this. Should people just suck it up and stop complaining or should there be another bolt.
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
Why should another bolt be put in if everyone stick clips the second bolt? Or are these "real" climbers asking for a lower first bolt? Not that I should know since I am a stick clipping, TR'ing whimp.
While we are on the subject of The Dark Side, on the Monday after RocTrip I watched Emily Harrington cruise Straight Outta Campton and Dave Graham take numerous falls on Swingline. What is up with these routes? Bennie is the only person shown in the spray section to have ticked them.
While we are on the subject of The Dark Side, on the Monday after RocTrip I watched Emily Harrington cruise Straight Outta Campton and Dave Graham take numerous falls on Swingline. What is up with these routes? Bennie is the only person shown in the spray section to have ticked them.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
The one thing about having a bolt lower is that you would be able to clip it standing on the 20 ft ledge so you are atleast on while you try and stick clip the following bolts.
SOC is a condition dependent route with alot of sloppers from what i can remember. and Singline is hard from what i hear. and not everyone is like Benny most people that climb those routes (that are on this board) are modest climbers
SOC is a condition dependent route with alot of sloppers from what i can remember. and Singline is hard from what i hear. and not everyone is like Benny most people that climb those routes (that are on this board) are modest climbers
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the lurkist
- Posts: 2240
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
Chris Martin's route. You can check with him, but I know what he will say- The route is fine as it is. Folks can stick clip number two if they can't sack up.
Swing line was done by Tony Berlier, Bill Ramsey that I know of.
Swing line was done by Tony Berlier, Bill Ramsey that I know of.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
American Dream has been there for years and there has never been an issue.
If you don't have a stick clip, climb up the ramp, clip the first bolt on Big Burley, then climb to the first on American Dream, clip that, return to the ledge and unclip the first on BB. Its "safe" and takes about 5 seconds.
Another note about Straight Outa..., Dave G. said that is the first 5.13 that he has fallen on in 4 years. It is a good route, just a bit hard to follow at points.
There are a number of folks that have sent Swing Line that I can think of, Tyler Haak, Greg K., Emily H., myself, several of the European guys and most recently Corrie Eldred of Chattanooga (yes, she is a female and yes she did it in the POORING rain on Monday)
If you don't have a stick clip, climb up the ramp, clip the first bolt on Big Burley, then climb to the first on American Dream, clip that, return to the ledge and unclip the first on BB. Its "safe" and takes about 5 seconds.
Another note about Straight Outa..., Dave G. said that is the first 5.13 that he has fallen on in 4 years. It is a good route, just a bit hard to follow at points.
There are a number of folks that have sent Swing Line that I can think of, Tyler Haak, Greg K., Emily H., myself, several of the European guys and most recently Corrie Eldred of Chattanooga (yes, she is a female and yes she did it in the POORING rain on Monday)
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