Nooblet on a 5.10a
i saw this on the front page of rockclimbing.com - and relayed the link here - i dont know who the climber is or who posted ittomdarch wrote:corduroy - I don't think I'm getting the details of the fall from the video - would you mind walking through what happened?
that being said
i can relate - i took a fall just like that on wadcutter my first month of climbing
did i hear him say "im going to fall" then an "ok" from the ground - like everythings fine go ahead
also - the rope was behind the leg for a while - and none of his buddies on the ground said anything to help - i would expect to hear it load and clear from my belayer
Someone needs to put millions of dollars into research for this.
but in the meantime I suggest that we start by eliminating as many variables as possible that could cause anomalies in the results.... Remove the belayer, the climber, and of course gravity*
but in the meantime I suggest that we start by eliminating as many variables as possible that could cause anomalies in the results.... Remove the belayer, the climber, and of course gravity*
"My Shit is Fucked Up." --Warren Zevon and Terry Kindred.
i finally got to watch the video (ie. i'm not at work 
)
the part that concerned me was the statement "i'm going to fall" the belayers "ok" and THEN he decided to take the fall. if he had enough time to announce the fall, wait for the belayer to get ready and THEN fall - he had enough time to check to see where the rope was in relation to his leg. i don't know how far down the belayer was, but she should have said something like "watch your leg" rather than "ok."
this instance wasn't a quick event as it was when i got my heel caught behind the rope and flipped. it's sad that obviously neither he nor his bealyer was alert enough to prevent this type of fall.
i hope he's ok. maybe he'll wear his helmet next time.
oh - as far as wearing a helmet. the petzl meteor III is my hat of choice. i highly recommend it. it's super lightweight and ventilated the best i've seen. keeps me cool in the summer! it's also the most expensive and a 1-time use. but if you don't like your helmet you're much less likely to wear it!
)the part that concerned me was the statement "i'm going to fall" the belayers "ok" and THEN he decided to take the fall. if he had enough time to announce the fall, wait for the belayer to get ready and THEN fall - he had enough time to check to see where the rope was in relation to his leg. i don't know how far down the belayer was, but she should have said something like "watch your leg" rather than "ok."
this instance wasn't a quick event as it was when i got my heel caught behind the rope and flipped. it's sad that obviously neither he nor his bealyer was alert enough to prevent this type of fall.
i hope he's ok. maybe he'll wear his helmet next time.
oh - as far as wearing a helmet. the petzl meteor III is my hat of choice. i highly recommend it. it's super lightweight and ventilated the best i've seen. keeps me cool in the summer! it's also the most expensive and a 1-time use. but if you don't like your helmet you're much less likely to wear it!
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun
I tried the helmit for a long time. I kept taking it off half way up the route because it's just to hot. You can also flip upside down when you pop off a layback. the best you can hope for is climbers learn thier lesson about having the rope behind thier leg without getting hurt. Flipping is scary shit and makes one think more next time.
It also screws up the lead head. A dose of reality.
It also screws up the lead head. A dose of reality.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
I just watched the fall a bunch of times - I don't think that the rope was behind his leg when he came off. When you watch the whole thing, he moves his left foot up, then his right, and there really isn't a move where his left heel would have gone behind the rope. At 55 sec. you can make out the rope somewhat, and it looks like it's running straight from the draw to the harness, not hooked around the heel/leg. Also, when he falls, he doesn't fall straight down, then flip as happens when you take a controlled fall, then the rope comes tight under the leg.
It looks more like maybe his foot didn't come out of the rock cleanly, and that there was too much slack out. It doesn't look like he pushes off too much, but he swings way out then comes back in. Also there isn't the classic 'flip' at the end of the fall from the rope being behind the leg. I suspect he sort of spazzed and jumpped back and away from the rock, starting his flip, instead of just 'dropping' along the rock. As for how he starts with his feet just above the draw and ends up so low, you can see the belayer's head near the end of the clip, and (s)he doesn't look to have been pulled off the ground - my guess is that there was a bit more rope out than necessary for a 'soft catch'. So it looks to me like a botched 'jump' combined with a lot of slack to made for an overly spectacular whipper.
It looks more like maybe his foot didn't come out of the rock cleanly, and that there was too much slack out. It doesn't look like he pushes off too much, but he swings way out then comes back in. Also there isn't the classic 'flip' at the end of the fall from the rope being behind the leg. I suspect he sort of spazzed and jumpped back and away from the rock, starting his flip, instead of just 'dropping' along the rock. As for how he starts with his feet just above the draw and ends up so low, you can see the belayer's head near the end of the clip, and (s)he doesn't look to have been pulled off the ground - my guess is that there was a bit more rope out than necessary for a 'soft catch'. So it looks to me like a botched 'jump' combined with a lot of slack to made for an overly spectacular whipper.
-
absolutsugarsmurf
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 1:03 am
Based on his RC.com profile it might be Beta Spewer at Muir. I say that because its the only one I haven't been on. It's rated 10b at Muir, but we all know that its probably a 10a. Hijacked!absolutsugarsmurf wrote:does anyone recognize the route? the poster on rc.com stated that it was a 10.a in the red. if we knew the route, there would be more information everyone could use to condemn this guy.
That no-talent shill David Caruso just called, he wants his job back. Some serious analysis going on here. Does anyone see the real irony in this? The fact that someone was filming one of his first leads ever. Perhaps if not trying to perform for the potential web debut he could have used his head for something besides breaking the fall. (Potential topic of dicussion: media/corporate influence....or not)
Lots of good advice, the rope, the helmet (the stigma of not looking cool or tough)..... Maybe its because I'm always climbing trad in the middle of nowhere but I say learn to back down. I know its pretty obvious where a sport route goes (line of chalk, bolts) but maybe people become too focused on going up to remember all of the things that can well, bring you down, as mentioned by everyone else. I can't think of a reason to back off of a sport route other than fatigue (for myself), but it is just about guaranteed to stave off those monkey flips and have you back out there for the next webinar. Or, you can file in with the collective ego and do flips, either way you'll learn, but I'd rather not get abused in the process.
Lots of good advice, the rope, the helmet (the stigma of not looking cool or tough)..... Maybe its because I'm always climbing trad in the middle of nowhere but I say learn to back down. I know its pretty obvious where a sport route goes (line of chalk, bolts) but maybe people become too focused on going up to remember all of the things that can well, bring you down, as mentioned by everyone else. I can't think of a reason to back off of a sport route other than fatigue (for myself), but it is just about guaranteed to stave off those monkey flips and have you back out there for the next webinar. Or, you can file in with the collective ego and do flips, either way you'll learn, but I'd rather not get abused in the process.