Ethics: a moral continuum from draws on routes to booty

Post by **marathonmedic** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 7:09 pm

My money is on some idiots with a stickclip.

I've never done much travelling, but aren't the ethics on this issue pretty much the same no matter where you are?

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:51 pm

climbing ethics are situational...some see booty, some see fixed gear, some see project draws...I can't tell you how many cleaning biners I have left in the middle of steep routes, only to find them stolen within weeks....I am betting over 20 in the past two years. I give up....

Post by **512OW** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:57 pm

I almost stole your cleaner biner on Iniquity. On the way down I realized what it was for and put it back.

Sport climbing is easy. It takes no time to get good at it, and if you're fresh out of the gym, why would you know all the "ethics"?

Post by **pawilkes** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 10:04 pm

i stole a cleaning quick link off Return of Chris Snyder because i thought it was a bail biner. i nearly killed myself penduluming into the huge tree (for some reason i unclipped from my belayers end) i learned real quick what they were for.

Post by **Shamis** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 10:09 pm

I blame pigsteak, all the noobs learn how to sport-aid by watching him...then nothing is safe.

Post by **ThomClimber** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:03 pm

So, hypothetically, if you see anything on a route leave it. Leave it alone ONLY if it is a (nearly) full set of draws. Don't take leaver biners?

I am confused. Where I grew up leaver pieces were fair game. It seems like the ethic here is to leave everything hanging that is on the route.

Th

Post by **512OW** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:09 pm

Not leaver biners.... CLEANING biners.

When routes are uber steep like some in the Red, its easier and safer to clean if you can just clip through a biner at mid route somewhere.

Post by **ThomClimber** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:14 pm

gotcha - seen them but never knew that they were semi-permanent features.

Now I know.

Th

Post by **rhunt** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 8:46 am

I got a leaver biner from Andrew's (my hero) ultra classic route, Mellow Yellow on Sunday. For all you bootly hunters, $5.00 and its yours, just think you didn't even have to work for that booty.

Post by **chriss** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 9:11 am

rhunt wrote:I got a leaver biner from Andrew's (my hero) ultra classic route, Mellow Yellow on Sunday. For all you bootly hunters, $5.00 and its yours, just think you didn't even have to work for that booty.

Are you sure it wasn't a cleaning beaner? I saw several people using it for cleaning on Saturday.