My longest fall to date!
No, but I think Im going to have to the next time if I want to redpoint that thing. My endurance sucks right now. I was thinking of trying "kool aid" Have you done it, or heard anything about it?
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.
Yea man, I tried Kool Aid a long time ago. From what I remember it is off-fingers and balancey for the first 3/4 then you have to do this crazy bouldery move out left with a heel-hook to finish. It's cool as hell!
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
-Horatio
Power2U's big Fall in Redrocks
Ahem... *SINCE I was accused of auditing the other day...*
I was the belayer on John's Big fall (Power2U) in 1995 and I can vouch that the story is largely true, but grew a little. It was a 70-footer, with quite a swing! Fot those unaware, this pitch rises up and right at a 60 degree angle over the lip of the roof, which he cleared.
THe prussik thing- Hey John, remember argueing over who got the lead and me joking with you, snapping a jumar to the gearloop on your butt with the tag line and saying "your going to need this then."
John Jumared to eye-level with me and I reeled him in on the tag line. That's what I remember. The funny part was even with a broken wrist (which we found out later) he said "I'll still follow it if you lead." That's balls.
-Tony Bubb
I was the belayer on John's Big fall (Power2U) in 1995 and I can vouch that the story is largely true, but grew a little. It was a 70-footer, with quite a swing! Fot those unaware, this pitch rises up and right at a 60 degree angle over the lip of the roof, which he cleared.
THe prussik thing- Hey John, remember argueing over who got the lead and me joking with you, snapping a jumar to the gearloop on your butt with the tag line and saying "your going to need this then."
John Jumared to eye-level with me and I reeled him in on the tag line. That's what I remember. The funny part was even with a broken wrist (which we found out later) he said "I'll still follow it if you lead." That's balls.
-Tony Bubb
My Own best falls at RRG.
Uh... Well, the route Crater I comes to mind, a new route I did at Long Wall in 1990. To find it, find a 6'*5'*2' boulder lying by the forest road in the ditch just after the normal long wall pullout- follow a swath ob broken trees to a crater in the ground, and possible what still remains of the adjascent "print" of my heals, butt, and shoulders. Look up the wall 40' to a sloping ledge with an "inset" area about 6'*5'. CLimb up to that. From there the rout climbs up broken OW. THis is near Ralph and Bob's.
PS- this route took 2 tries... (Tony Bubb, Hans Barsun, Fall 1990)
Next big one was in 1992 on BeeneStalker. I was at the top with my arm propped across the ledge, arranging my reversed/opposed ovals on the slings so I could lower off prior to Mike Heffner following. When I pulled up slack to clip, the foothold I was on gave under the weight- Off I went, popping a peice and stopping level with the initial roof. I swung in and bashed the rock with my chest. It was so cold and wet that day that I didn't notice the blood until after climbing. I took off my outter long sleave shirt- we had to soak my T-shirt at the rest stop to "unglue" it from my chest due to the blood that crusted it on.
PS- this route took 2 tries... (Tony Bubb, Hans Barsun, Fall 1990)
Next big one was in 1992 on BeeneStalker. I was at the top with my arm propped across the ledge, arranging my reversed/opposed ovals on the slings so I could lower off prior to Mike Heffner following. When I pulled up slack to clip, the foothold I was on gave under the weight- Off I went, popping a peice and stopping level with the initial roof. I swung in and bashed the rock with my chest. It was so cold and wet that day that I didn't notice the blood until after climbing. I took off my outter long sleave shirt- we had to soak my T-shirt at the rest stop to "unglue" it from my chest due to the blood that crusted it on.
Not my longest fall, but certainly the most painful. A few years ago when I was just getting into leading sport I was on my first 5.9 sport lead at the Long Wall at Summersville Lake New River Gorge. 4 bolts up and heading for the anchors my arms pumped out, and I yelled, "FALLING!!!" My belayer interpreted that as take up all the slack possible so the rope went from a dynamic to a static rope instaneously. I only took a 6 ft fall, however it bent my spine all the way back where my head almost touched my heels. I knew something was seriously wrong, so I came down and laid by the lake for a few hours.
A few days later I thought everything was back to normal so I went out skateboarding at NCSU. Attempting to kickflip down some stairs I landed and immediately my body went down to the ground. I had to be carried to the hospital, because the combination of my leader fall, and the impact of coming over the stairs slipped 4 of my discs in my back.
I ended up having to lay on the couch for a month. Luckily I came back to finish the route the next Spring. But now I'm very wary of who belays me, and how loose I like my belays. I'd rather take a longer fall to avoid another back injury.
A few days later I thought everything was back to normal so I went out skateboarding at NCSU. Attempting to kickflip down some stairs I landed and immediately my body went down to the ground. I had to be carried to the hospital, because the combination of my leader fall, and the impact of coming over the stairs slipped 4 of my discs in my back.
I ended up having to lay on the couch for a month. Luckily I came back to finish the route the next Spring. But now I'm very wary of who belays me, and how loose I like my belays. I'd rather take a longer fall to avoid another back injury.