There is a new route at the gunsight notch that just got its first ascent this weekend by Laban Swofford of Chatanoga Tn.Its name is Dirty Sanchez. 5.12b.
Its location is at the gunsight notch.You pass it on the way to second nature.
4 bolts 60 ft(the first bolt is 20 ft up)bring a stick clip.It starts on the arete at a slopey pocket on the right.heel hook left,intermediate left hand crimps.to a tooth on the arete.match hands,cut, then reset feet.hard barndoorish layback left.pinch the arete (like you are choking a little girl!!) then stand up on the previously mentioned tooth.gas a little.work the arete then step left to a ledge.clip the 2nd bolt.gas up, then back out to the arete. work up to a slopey dish.right foot in the dish.left foot flagging.right hand on the arete.reach accross to a 7 finger slot.stance then clip the 3rd bolt.Crimp rails to the top.
new route at the farside/gunsight notch
that's why I like my short term memory, I can hear or read all the beta in the world and by the time I get to the climb I have forgotten it all. It even works for some of the routes I have climbed. Sometimes it is a curse though.
"But what is happiness except the simple harmony between a man and the life he leads?" – Lord Byron
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