The Gift

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
t bone
Posts: 455
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 10:56 pm

Post by t bone »

Heady!! There have been two bolts added to the route since the fa. hell it use to be real spicy!
benny
Posts: 9
Joined: Fri May 23, 2003 11:12 pm

Post by benny »

So how do you stick that reachy move on the first bulge. I was underclinging the blocky hold with my right hand, reaching up left, then kinda lunging up left and letting my right go at the same time. I could hit the hold, just couldn't hold all my wieght on it.
Danny
Posts: 1088
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 7:20 pm

Post by Danny »

Benny, how tall are you? I can reach that. I don't know which hand I undercling with though -- it may be my left instead of right.

Tbone, right on. Definitely don't want you to spill the beta here. Last time I was on it I was telling my belayer "that move was hard but there is probably some secret beta I am missing ...".

SCROTUMSEEKER, check your PMs.
Gretchen
Posts: 2064
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:16 pm

Post by Gretchen »

That's what BBerlier said last night. He felt like he was missing the key hold(s) but was able to do it anyway.
Just genuinely disengenuous.
benny
Posts: 9
Joined: Fri May 23, 2003 11:12 pm

Post by benny »

I'm a hair shy of 6'2". Maybe the left hand undercling is the way to go. I wanted my right hand on that hold anyway. I was just positioned to go up left, and could find better feet that way. It feels like I should be able to reach it, but I just couldn't pull it off. Maybe next time.

But how the hell would you do it if you were shorter. My friend finished the route for me (with much grumbling from the last bolt to the anchors), but he had to aid that reachy move. He's about 5'7", but a much better all-around climber than me.
TRAD-SEEKER
Posts: 75
Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 6:51 pm

Post by TRAD-SEEKER »

I think that the moves over the bulge and before the roof are the crux. The last roof is pretty juggy.
t bone
Posts: 455
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 10:56 pm

Post by t bone »

benny , i am only 5' 8 '' but i have long arms. it is a reach for me but i get my feet up high. i use my left hand on undercling.
benny
Posts: 9
Joined: Fri May 23, 2003 11:12 pm

Post by benny »

Cool. Thanks for the help everyone.
Horatio Felacio
Posts: 3338
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm

Post by Horatio Felacio »

hey t-bone, what bolts did you say had been added?
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
t bone
Posts: 455
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 10:56 pm

Post by t bone »

Hf ,The last bolt on the slab and the very last bolt were not there on the Fa. i added them about a year later. i put the anchors in then also.
Post Reply