new guidebook
So Wes, Pigsteak, and 512OW -- you are suggesting that I abandon trad (oops, tard) climbing and start clipping bolts to aspire to a 5.12 in order to ask a question? Should I start frequenting the "Sport" section of this forum from here on? Don't worry, I will buy the new guidebook -- my attempt at lighthearted humor at the expense of the sport crowd is not captured in the tone of my first email. There appear to be about 300 new sport climbs in the Red. I am merely curious if there are any newer trad lines that have been established as well. Trust me - I'm no cheapo - I support RRGCC and the Access Fund with hard, real (5.12) contributions. I pick up cigarette butts on my way in *and* out of the crag (another attempt at wry humor, and also true) So quit jumping my ass. Just think - when you're hopping on 8 Ball I'm not going to be in your way -- I'll be miles away plugging gear in a secluded dirty crack.
[rant]ecp88 wrote:So Wes, Pigsteak, and 512OW -- you are suggesting that I abandon trad (oops, tard) climbing and start clipping bolts to aspire to a 5.12 in order to ask a question? Should I start frequenting the "Sport" section of this forum from here on? Don't worry, I will buy the new guidebook -- my attempt at lighthearted humor at the expense of the sport crowd is not captured in the tone of my first email. There appear to be about 300 new sport climbs in the Red. I am merely curious if there are any newer trad lines that have been established as well. Trust me - I'm no cheapo - I support RRGCC and the Access Fund with hard, real (5.12) contributions. I pick up cigarette butts on my way in *and* out of the crag (another attempt at wry humor, and also true) So quit jumping my ass. Just think - when you're hopping on 8 Ball I'm not going to be in your way -- I'll be miles away plugging gear in a secluded dirty crack.
ecp88 don't take it too personally. I will say this though, in your OP the "lighthearted humor" is about Muir. There is an ongoing negative undercurrent in the RRG climbing community about Muir. Now, while the old schoolers can bring up issues and bash all they want (lord knows they have earned it) the new schoolers (myself included) need to realize that Rick Weber is offering something we all need, access to climbing friendly private property. Maybe the grades aren't in line with old school grades, that is for another thread. Maybe it gets crowded at the easier crags, but if you weren't there with them how would you know? Instead of trying to appear like a gizzled veteran who poo poo's newbie sport climbers take a look at the list of closures and restrictions that are ever growing on the Access Fund website. Read threads here, and at RC.com about access issues on a near daily basis. Private property access is a big portion of the future of rock climbing. There is a reason the RRGCC purchased the PMRP. It wasn't to provide bolt ladders, it was to provide access for sport climbing, trad climbing, hiking, and other recreational activities. It was to secure access.
The same goes for the Webers. They are providing access, something we should all be happy to have. So go tell your newbie friends, and I'll go tell mine. Muir is available in spite of all the negative attitudes, and let's try to keep it that way. Besides, you would have climbed that 5.9 sport route even if it was downgraded to a more realistic 5.7.
Oh, and go buy the guidebook. I hear the full page pics are the best!
[/rant]
Whoa - Listen: I have nothing but the utmost respect for Rick and Liz Weber. I'm sorry if I gave an impression that suggests otherwise. I was using a shorthand for a situation that has resulted in Rick and Liz having to go online to issue warnings and appeals related to dogs, parking, smoking, and even cussing. The three times I've pulled into Muir Valley this year to yes, sport climb, the parking lot has been full. So to respect Rick's online request that if this is the case I've gone elsewhere instead of parking in front of his garage. This has nothing to do with old schoolers or 5.12 climbers. I should be much more clear in my posts -- Again, my post was really about whether or not there are any new trad climbs of note in the new guidebook. I see from the front page of RRC that there are (5) new trad climbs - which is awesome - I'm looking forward to the weekend.
Cool, have fun! I'm probably going to head out and plug some gear this weekend too. For me, its a learning process. That, and its fun to get the poo scared out of you.ecp88 wrote:I see from the front page of RRC that there are (5) new trad climbs - which is awesome - I'm looking forward to the weekend.
Re: new guidebook
http://www.muirvalley.com/muirvalley_gu ... rch=Searchecp88 wrote:Has anyone seen if there are any new trad lines listed in the new guide book? If all the new routes are bolt ladders in Muir Valley then its not worth it, I can save my money.
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
You're an awfully sensitive little girl.ecp88 wrote:So Wes, Pigsteak, and 512OW -- you are suggesting that I abandon trad (oops, tard) climbing and start clipping bolts to aspire to a 5.12 in order to ask a question? Should I start frequenting the "Sport" section of this forum from here on? Don't worry, I will buy the new guidebook -- my attempt at lighthearted humor at the expense of the sport crowd is not captured in the tone of my first email. There appear to be about 300 new sport climbs in the Red. I am merely curious if there are any newer trad lines that have been established as well. Trust me - I'm no cheapo - I support RRGCC and the Access Fund with hard, real (5.12) contributions. I pick up cigarette butts on my way in *and* out of the crag (another attempt at wry humor, and also true) So quit jumping my ass. Just think - when you're hopping on 8 Ball I'm not going to be in your way -- I'll be miles away plugging gear in a secluded dirty crack.
I clip bolts because I ran out of trad. If I wanna climb a "new for me" trad route thats gonna challenge me I have to go to an area where I can get only one or two "new for me" climbs in a day, and I like mileage. That and I've used sport climbing so that I don't have to project 5.12 cracks. They feel alot easier after getting in sport shape...
I avoided sport for ages for the same naive reasons you posted. Wes was just trying to teach you your lesson before you had to learn it the LONG way.
Its awesome that you're psyched. Just don't be so damn sensitive.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
Despite the ad hominem, I agree with you WesWes wrote:
Heh, spoken like a newby tard climber for sure. Maybe once you grow up and get a bit stronger and better you might come to learn that while the red has some pretty good trad lines here and there, it is truly an amazing sport climbing area. People do not come here from around the world to climb at fortress, they come here to sample some of the very best sport climbing anywhere.
