Dynabolt Gold ?

Post by **tunedvwgti** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 10:14 am

Has anyone climbed Dynabolt Gold? It's in Muir Valley at The Great Wall. It was my first 5.10 onsight and I was rather happy about it. I am curious if anyone disagrees with the 5.10a rating. I thought it was going to be a bit tougher. The huge plates are everywhere and it isn't spread very thin anywhere on the route. I thought the crux on All Cows Eat Grass5.8 was harder than any of the moves on this 5.10a.

I know climbing is subjective to a point and the rating system can't always differentiate between a pumpy 5.10a and crimpy 5.10a so that is what makes it exciting. The jug routes might be easy for one person while the crimp might be easier for another.

Anyways.....

Next order of Business-
The other post about great/classic 5.10's in the gorge was really interesting, can anyone suggest which 5.10's are similiar to Dynabolt, like one's that are more 'jug hauls' than crimpy?

Post by **bcombs** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 11:04 am

Dynabolt is probably closer to 5.9 IMO.

Other "easy" 5.10a's at Muir:

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1268
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1227
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1344
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1232
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1172

59" DrillBitch may be a bit tougher up top than the rest. Boltergeist has a good view from the top.

Outside of Muir, one of my favorite 10a's is: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... php?id=626

Have fun.

Post by **tunedvwgti** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 11:22 am

NICE!

Looks like I have next thursday planned now!

MAN, I love Muir Valley... Boltergeist sounds like its right up my alley... I love exposure...

Post by **pawilkes** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 12:27 pm

a few of the routes on Great Wall have been down graded since the last guide book came out. I did a bunch of them a few weeks ago and everything was easier that I had expected. The stuff further down (the Hideout???) was a bit more true to the grade, maybe a bit sandbagged even.

Post by **p0bray01** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 7:34 pm

It seems alot of the older routes at Muir are a little soft for the grade...Boltergeist is like the neverending route! Great route...just when you think you are done...more slab! Most of the routes at bruisebrothers were a bit easy for the grade too. Good job tho!

Post by **FujManiac** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:37 am

Dynabolt Gold is a really fun route...but is easier than a 10A. good job though!
and I think you might find that All Cows Eat Grass might seem harder because it's a much different type of climbing style. slab vs. jugs. So maybe you've just found your style...
oh and bruise brothers wall has some fun 10 climbs.

Post by **Barry Brolley** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 9:23 pm

When JJ bolted the route, he envisaged that it would go right at the crux. he did not see the easier version to the left - which every one now does. The hoi polloi were anxious to know the grade before it was climbed by others...next time you climb it try going right at the 2nd bolt...or if you are one of the multitudes that mutter "the Muir has soft grades", then get on JJ's route next door "Lip Service"...also guess where he got the name

Post by JR » Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:36 am

Come on BB, we know you are really JJ. Still defending those feak'in soft grades? So you throw in some fancy word like "hoi polloi " to try and separate yourself from the herd. To late, you are separate from the masses. You still think Muir valley doesn't have soft grades.

p.s. Lip Service is soft too

Post by **tunedvwgti** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:41 am

Yeah, The line one can take on the first few bolts could easily comprise itself of multiple 5.10 moves if the climber can avoid the temptation of taking the super easy left side of the bolts. That first bolt is so high that stick clipping it might tight the edge off mentally since it would be a rather large ground fall from that first bolt.

next time you climb it try going right at the 2nd bolt...

Yeah... In retrospect, I think that the route really is a 5.10 route, but a lot of people bypass the crux moves which are actually at the very begining, and take the left side of the bolts...

Another mystery solved...

Post by **bcombs** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:46 am

I have to disagree (I'll probably get flamed for this

)...

If the line is easier on one side of the bolts than the other then it should be graded at the lower rating. Everyone will always take the line of least resistence, and so long as you are a couple feet one side or the other of the bolt line then IMO you are in the "line". So, instead of saying it's 5.10a if you do it the "right" way just rate it a frickin 5.9.