Route at Roadside

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Jul 07, 2003 1:42 am

Does anyone know why the hangers have been removed from the route farthest right on the Kampsite wall at Roadside? I assume this is C Sharp?

Post by **t bone** » Mon Jul 07, 2003 1:46 am

the route which has the hangers removed,is to the right of c sharp. johnny should know what that is.

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Jul 07, 2003 1:54 am

So is the route just right of the crack in this picture Kampsite then?

Post by **hamsco** » Mon Jul 07, 2003 10:36 am

The route is a Tony Reyanaldo climb. It is listed in Johns guide as an "Unknown 10b". I don't know the whole story why the hangers are gone, but they have not been there for years. He also mentions two "off route bolts in about the same location. Then there are the bolts in the cave around the corner? Whats up with that?

Post by **t bone** » Mon Jul 07, 2003 12:16 pm

Ask spoonman about those bolts in the cave.

Post by **Artsay** » Mon Jul 07, 2003 2:04 pm

Nobody knows if that route in the picture is Kampsite? Ray's trying to get the online guide accurate. There's a route to the left and one to the right of that crack. Is the route to the left of the crack Just Duet? And is the route to the right of the crack Kampsite? Any info appreciated.

Post by **Johnny** » Mon Jul 07, 2003 2:30 pm

The route in the photo is Trouble Clef. You can just barely see Kampsight from the 3rd bolt up on the left margin of the photo.

I never got the story about that 10b. Somebody told me Tuna Boy chopped it but when I confronted him about it years later, he denied it. Initially there were a lot of complaints about the placement of the bolts and the botched stuff at the bottom. It didn't bother me that much, but they could have been placed a bit better since the crux was somewhat dangerous the way it was bolted. Stacy Temple and I had actually top-roped the route after Kampsight and C# were put in, but never got back to equipping it. It's a good route and needs to be re-bolted. I never even heard a rumor of a name for it.

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:14 pm

That is a classic route man. Trouble Clef. I felt like I was in North Carolina or something climbing it. Thanks for putting that up John.

So, directly left of that is Kampsite, right? Where is Just Duet? I only saw 6 routes plus the chopped route on that wall.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Mon Jul 07, 2003 6:18 pm

the unknown .10 b was originally referred to as "the decapitation of larry leadfoot".

Post by **Power2U** » Mon Jul 07, 2003 6:27 pm

SCIN,

What you do'n back there? This area is like the Lode only inverted! Instead of grid bolted steepness with a trampled base it is grid bolted slabs with a trampled base!

I probably just don't get it