Dumb drillers, Dumb anchors...

Post by **quicksilver** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:04 pm

I do not know Porter but I am assuming that since he spent all of his time climbing and used homemade hangers that money was an issue, especially considering the enormous number of routes he put up. Good thing no one told him to cease and desist if he did not have enough money to do it right. Funny how things change from dirt bag climbers doing awesome things to if you ain't got the bucks than stay away. I have never bolted a route in my life and I just want to say thanks to anyone and everyone who has busted their ass to bring me and others such pleasure on the rock. It is a ton of work and takes tremendous dedication.
I fell on moonbeam years ago and cut my head on one of those squared off angle iron hangers - guess I should have called up the FA and bitched.
All things considered the bolts in the RRG are safe and efficient.

Post by **RRO** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 7:07 pm

in todays sport climbing world of the red, routes should be bolted well, with proper gear and if you dont have the ability and funds to it right then dont do it. i agree with kris 100% on that part and i truly think most the developers in this area do. but things do happen, people forget and things get stolen, basically shit happens. one of the big reasons i was fussing, well other than just cause i like to bitch and really enjoy ragging on kris, is the way this one was handled. a quick pm to the fa will usally will get things done and may shed some light on the issue at hand. if that doesnt work, then you move to shit talking.

Post by **RRO** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 7:10 pm

Crankmas wrote:I have 3 Fixe two ring anchors if anyone knows of a route that is in dire need of an anchor update besides Monkey Bars

i plan on hitting muscle beach along with my dirty grey haired father very soon. there are some pretty bad anchors out that way and have needed replaced for many moons.

Post by **Meadows** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:39 pm

quicksilver wrote: I fell on moonbeam years ago and cut my head on one of those squared off angle iron hangers - guess I should have called up the FA and bitched.

Why did your head come in contact with the bolt?

Post by **goodguy** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 10:50 pm

I don't think Quicksilver is trying to say that we should start using bed rail hangers again. It sounds to me like what is being said is that yes, we have evolved, yes the gear and hardware is better, but just because someone climbs a route that doesn't have 2 or 4 or whatever number of quicklinks on it, still doesn't mean that the developer of the route was broke.

We shouldn't be so quick to judge a book by its cover and in line with RRO we should think a little before we attack someone for a bolting job and maybe contact theFA if there is a problem.
I remember a certain past developer telling me to always check with the FA and always go to the source first. Even if you already knew the answer. Show some respect and some restraint.

Post by **quicksilver** » Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:29 am

It's been a long time ago but if I remember right I was on TR and it was almost dark. I was catching a ride from a stranger and when I fell there was enough slack in the rope that it allowed me to kind of slide down and I hit my head as I came back into the rock. Where there's a will there's a way

Post by **Andrew** » Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:31 am

I think Chode at Oil Crack is a perfect example of a perfectly bolted route with the perfect anchor set up.

Post by **rhunt** » Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:42 am

Andrew, what have we told you about talking about cliffs that are closed? Now go to your room!

Post by **512OW** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 12:37 am

The main problem here is that for some reason, people believe I'm ragging on one or two routes, or one or two individuals.

Thats not the case.

I've climbed a dozen routes in the past couple months that have this anchor setup. I don't care who did it. I was only specific because I was asked to be.

Frankly, if I had quicklinks with me, I'd have left them, but I never thought to carry them. Same as I don't carry hangers, nuts, or chains.

For me, I could give a shit less. I can downclimb those routes in my sleep. But if there are gonne be 3927 gumbies running around the PMRP because of clinics and being introduced to climbing thru big events like UClimb, don't you all think the anchor setup should be the best one, and not the cheapest one?

Post by **512OW** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 12:40 am

meetVA wrote:What I find funny about this thread:

Next we'll want an escalator to take us up to the cliff so we don't have to inconvenience ourself with the hike.

Thats basically what the PMRP is about, right?