I didn't mention the route on purpose. See? Told you there was always a reason.
Whistle Driller is the best nine I've ever sent. friggin choice line. The nut works. I left one there for a year untill I let someone use my rack on B3 and he couldn't get one to fit near the crux because half of them were missing. I retrieved it and bought some more.
Dumb drillers, Dumb anchors...
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Don McGlone
- Posts: 567
- Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:16 pm
Ah yes, Stem Cell. Man when I first saw this beautiful line, there was this instant connection - mystical if you will. I mean the WHOLE rock was vibrating with energy! I knew then and there that I just had to bolt this route. But a load of questions was burning deep inside me - am I intelligent enough to do the job? What will the climbing community think of me if I blow it? Will I be cast back into obscurity and sent to wander in the choss-filled wasteland of Morehead? But the pull of getting my name in the guidebook was strong, so strong that I threw reason to the wind and bolted the route. Then I realized the unthinkable - I only had two quiklinks for the anchors! I had failed miserably. Now my ego has touched off a storm that has led to condemnation from close friends and mentors, virulent criticism from many climbers, and a potential strict new bolting policy that requires an IQ test. All I can say is that I am so sorry that all this negativity has arisen from such a beautiful communion with nature. Ban me now - before more damage is done!
Does this mean you're gonna do one of those wrapper songs about me, OBUD? Hell yea, glossy mags here I come! Geez, And I thought I would get fame and glory from bolting 5.10 sport routes.
In all seriousness, I will fix said route ASAP. If anyone beats me to it, look me up and I'll pay you for the quiklinks. Sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused. If you climb the route before it's fixed and don't want to pigtail your rope, just rap off a single anchor. Scary, but not as scary as a pigtailed rope.
Does this mean you're gonna do one of those wrapper songs about me, OBUD? Hell yea, glossy mags here I come! Geez, And I thought I would get fame and glory from bolting 5.10 sport routes.
In all seriousness, I will fix said route ASAP. If anyone beats me to it, look me up and I'll pay you for the quiklinks. Sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused. If you climb the route before it's fixed and don't want to pigtail your rope, just rap off a single anchor. Scary, but not as scary as a pigtailed rope.
Shedding off one more layer of skin
Keeping one step ahead of the persecutor within
Keeping one step ahead of the persecutor within
What I find funny about this thread:
I've read a several threads on this board about badly placed bolts and the general sentiment that those spicy routes should be left alone. It's the lure of the climb. It is also up to the climber to assess their skill in comparison to what the route requires. If you don't like it, you should walk away.
And now we are beotching about this? Com'on. Next we'll want an escalator to take us up to the cliff so we don't have to inconvenience ourself with the hike.
I've read a several threads on this board about badly placed bolts and the general sentiment that those spicy routes should be left alone. It's the lure of the climb. It is also up to the climber to assess their skill in comparison to what the route requires. If you don't like it, you should walk away.
And now we are beotching about this? Com'on. Next we'll want an escalator to take us up to the cliff so we don't have to inconvenience ourself with the hike.
Last edited by meetVA on Tue Sep 11, 2007 8:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.
- Robert McCloskey
A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing.
- Emo Philips
- Robert McCloskey
A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing.
- Emo Philips
I can see both sides. It's a bit rude when you make it to the anchors and have to ask yourself what your gonna do with something you weren't expecting. And it's fucked up that people steal a cheapo quiklink from an anchor and screw it up for everyone. Maybe the bolter didn't finish the job,maybe his drill battery bit the dust.
After Terry's rant I'm inclined to give everyone plenty leeway. After clipping ancient pitons at Seneca the bolts at the Red look pretty decent.
After Terry's rant I'm inclined to give everyone plenty leeway. After clipping ancient pitons at Seneca the bolts at the Red look pretty decent.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
i have started to post on this thread since kris started it. i think i have posted at least 3 comments and erased them all. i just cant seem to get what i want to say out without sounding like a douche and all aggro. this post is no better but im tired of deleting them.
i just think its funny this thread got started over a trad route(cultural wasteland) that should not have ever had anchors on it, should be blown up and turned into a volleyball court. the anchors were put on by someone other than the fa. and a sport route(stem cell) that from what i hear is a pretty decent route that was missing a link at the anchor. i have not been on it and do not know whats up with the anchor but it sounds like thats all it was ? in all reality a quick pm to the fa'ist(corpse) would have saw a quick and easy fix and maybe even some background as to what happened and we could be fussing about politics and ray giving birth.
but just to keep it all going...
dumb, cheap and inexperienced is as far away from the dudes that bolted stem cell as you can get and in my useless opinion pretty freaking rude. those dudes have gave more time, money and free days to developing the pmrp and other parts of ky than most of us have, will or could think about doing. look at their routes in the red, most are becoming very popular and are very well bolted. when you bolt as many holes as a lot of the current developers your going to leave something at home. ask blake, pigsnuts, josh or ron if they ever ran outta gear, batteries die, get ran off by snow/rain/sleet/hail or no tooth rednecks while working on a route. i bet my last buck they have. it just happens. im not saying a messed up anchor is kosher at all, if its wrong it needs to be fixed before being opened, period. if its missing gear, the gear should be put on before being opened, period. but what i am saying is there are better ways to get it fixed, including fixing it yourself. a little while back i was out fixing the 11 at camp store and i ran out of quicklinks. i left lockers on the anchors cause i wanted people to have something to lower off. when i go back out i planned on putting links and chain on the anchors. but like everything else not glued to your body some jackass will steal them. so i get to pay for the replaced bolts, hangers, lockers and links, happens all the time on new and old routes alike. another little story, while out fixing bolts on the gift .i found out after replacing the anchors and 1 bolt that some of the old bolts on the route were a different size and had to be left next to a new one till next time we are out that way. instead of people saying thanks dude for making those moves feel a little safer and for replacing what was needed they pm'd and fussed cause i left the old one in. the list goes on and on forever dude. stolen gear, stolen links off chains, stolen gear on a fixed line, cut fixed lines, poached lines and so much more.and im sure this has not just happend to me, my guess is every developer has similar stories.
i guess what im saying is a lot of people are so quick to bitch and moan and throw pretty hard shit talking tantrums without finding out whats going on or having a little understanding of the particular route/developer.and its not with just the developers. a lot of people in this area give back in so many different ways and they seem to get a ton of shit thrown at them for even trying to make it a better place, usually by the people doing nothing.(no kris, that was not meant for you, you do give back) i just dont understand bi-peds most the time.
and just for arguing sake, kris. a route without all 4 links at the anchor is much safer and much less garbage than bolts sticking halfway out or a couple other anchors i have saw from team superman
i will be glad to go up and help ya get your anchors fixed , i dont even need the $100. gives me a reason to go bushwhack. if im not mistaken that cheap ass, dumb hillbilly that should not be bolting donated those anchors when you needed them, but i could be wrong.
i just think its funny this thread got started over a trad route(cultural wasteland) that should not have ever had anchors on it, should be blown up and turned into a volleyball court. the anchors were put on by someone other than the fa. and a sport route(stem cell) that from what i hear is a pretty decent route that was missing a link at the anchor. i have not been on it and do not know whats up with the anchor but it sounds like thats all it was ? in all reality a quick pm to the fa'ist(corpse) would have saw a quick and easy fix and maybe even some background as to what happened and we could be fussing about politics and ray giving birth.
but just to keep it all going...
dumb, cheap and inexperienced is as far away from the dudes that bolted stem cell as you can get and in my useless opinion pretty freaking rude. those dudes have gave more time, money and free days to developing the pmrp and other parts of ky than most of us have, will or could think about doing. look at their routes in the red, most are becoming very popular and are very well bolted. when you bolt as many holes as a lot of the current developers your going to leave something at home. ask blake, pigsnuts, josh or ron if they ever ran outta gear, batteries die, get ran off by snow/rain/sleet/hail or no tooth rednecks while working on a route. i bet my last buck they have. it just happens. im not saying a messed up anchor is kosher at all, if its wrong it needs to be fixed before being opened, period. if its missing gear, the gear should be put on before being opened, period. but what i am saying is there are better ways to get it fixed, including fixing it yourself. a little while back i was out fixing the 11 at camp store and i ran out of quicklinks. i left lockers on the anchors cause i wanted people to have something to lower off. when i go back out i planned on putting links and chain on the anchors. but like everything else not glued to your body some jackass will steal them. so i get to pay for the replaced bolts, hangers, lockers and links, happens all the time on new and old routes alike. another little story, while out fixing bolts on the gift .i found out after replacing the anchors and 1 bolt that some of the old bolts on the route were a different size and had to be left next to a new one till next time we are out that way. instead of people saying thanks dude for making those moves feel a little safer and for replacing what was needed they pm'd and fussed cause i left the old one in. the list goes on and on forever dude. stolen gear, stolen links off chains, stolen gear on a fixed line, cut fixed lines, poached lines and so much more.and im sure this has not just happend to me, my guess is every developer has similar stories.
i guess what im saying is a lot of people are so quick to bitch and moan and throw pretty hard shit talking tantrums without finding out whats going on or having a little understanding of the particular route/developer.and its not with just the developers. a lot of people in this area give back in so many different ways and they seem to get a ton of shit thrown at them for even trying to make it a better place, usually by the people doing nothing.(no kris, that was not meant for you, you do give back) i just dont understand bi-peds most the time.
and just for arguing sake, kris. a route without all 4 links at the anchor is much safer and much less garbage than bolts sticking halfway out or a couple other anchors i have saw from team superman
i will be glad to go up and help ya get your anchors fixed , i dont even need the $100. gives me a reason to go bushwhack. if im not mistaken that cheap ass, dumb hillbilly that should not be bolting donated those anchors when you needed them, but i could be wrong.http://www.redriveroutdoors.com
If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress
If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress
