Dumb drillers, Dumb anchors...

Post by **512OW** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:55 am

Meadows wrote: I don't know about Muir or the Bloomington Dynamic Duo (Josh and Ron), but we can make donations at teamsuckclimbing.com (hint hint, OW) for the guys who suck in general but rock at bolt replacement.

I've given. I even inquired a few Team Suck members about buying them a drill after the fire, but I never heard much about it. Probably wasn't taken seriously... and things were a little hectic, I'm sure.

Post by **512OW** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:58 am

pigsteak wrote:so let's be big about this, and do the call out. OW, what route specifically are you talking about, so the FA can take care of it? no need throwing around generalizations without action.

btw, if you guys rapped instead of being lowered,like we chastise all of the gumbies to do, will the single quicklink setup still coil your rope? (honest question, because I am a hypocrite and always get lowered thru the anchors instead of rapping.)

I'm not sure of the routes. I didn't have a clue what I was getting on that day. The only one I know for sure was "Stem Cell". There was at least one other at the same crag, not to mention a huge mess of an anchor on a trad route...

I do think that if you rap and pull the rope it will still kink. Just a guess though.

Post by **goodguy** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 12:01 pm

NA na na na na na na na, na na na na na na na na BATEMAN!
NA na na na na na na na, na na na na na na na na THURSTON!

Im so psyched to finally be recognized for my true identity. Part of THE bolting dynamic duo!!

Seriously, if there is a dangerous situation make it safe first and then let the FA or whoever is in charge know.

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 12:06 pm

Just kidding!

Post by **rhunt** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 12:15 pm

redpointron wrote:unfortunately, money does come into play rob...and some will always take the inexpensive road...but the donations made to team suck is a great start towards helping those bolting and retro-bolting.

I understand the lack of money and how donating to the re-bolting fund will help with fixing existing problems. As far as I understand it, funds donated to "team suck" only go towards fixing existing routes. Someone from "Team Suck" please correct me if I am wrong.

My point is that if one can not afford to bolt a route properly then s/he should not be bolting that route. That is one of the many reasons I don't bolt routes...too expensive! I would rather give money to the RRGCC for access support and give to "Team Suck" for updating and fixing current routes. I have been suggesting for a year now that route development should stop until all old routes are up to par.

Post by **anticlmber** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 12:19 pm

parting shot at military will F your rope up on a lower or toprope, (if you don't extend the draws. )

lord of the flys and overlord are two more. every climber would need to rap off to sdave the rope. everyone that climbs the route at that time.

Post by **goodguy** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 12:52 pm

Look its me with my "G" uniform. The disquise helps with confidence and comfort.

Post by **redpointron** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 1:46 pm

goodguy wrote:Look its me with my "G" uniform. The disquise helps with confidence and comfort.

that's cool. i always thought ace was the pitcher anyways.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 8:56 pm

Arachnid had one quik on a bolt and nothing on the other for years. It was horrible about kinking a rope. I haven't been on it in a while so I don't know if it's still that way. It kinked when you pulled the rope after rapping. While we are on anchors ,I can think of a couple with only one bolt for an anchor. One is a stellar 9 . I always put a nut in the crack next to it. Or I could be wrong and the route went on up but it wasn't apparent. The crack ends there. The other route was bolted by someone who is no longer with us. Maybe he thought it would go on up and just never finished it. There is always a reason for odd bolt jobs. It's rock climbing. I learned from Terry that bolters may or may not be willing to fix things. He threw in lots of expletives just to emphasize that point.

Post by **512OW** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:04 pm

I assume Ynot is talking about Whistle Driller. Its funny, I'm ok with crap anchors on trad lines. In fact, I'm all about LESS anchor. SCIN and I rapped off of slotted knots more than once....

Seriously though... the reason for the one bolt on Whistle Driller is that it had to be hand drilled. There used to be a nut there as well, but I assume that has long since been stolen.