Dumb drillers, Dumb anchors...

Post by **Andrew** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:17 am

If you rapped it wouldn't twist your rope 512OW. Wait you do rap.

Post by JR » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:24 am

I want to say bait and switch too. Ahhhh now I feel better. Do it Meadows. Fix it without permission. I double dog dare you. Pigsteak will never know.

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:25 am

name the specific route in question, and then I can give you that definitive answer.

Post by **redpointron** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:26 am

good topic kris.

thurston and i try to use a high / low set up on the routes we have been doing lately. we use 1/2 inch quick links (instead of 3/8 inch). half inch transport chain and another 1/2 inch quick link on the bottom. we try to orient the screw gate down and use lock tight as well. then, after years of people lowering off them, the only thing that should need to be changed would be the bottom quick link.

i hope this set up works for most. and, if you have ANY suggestions...on the way i or goodguy have bolted something...please p.m. either of us.

unfortunately, money does come into play rob...and some will always take the inexpensive road...but the donations made to team suck is a great start towards helping those bolting and retro-bolting.

regards.

r.r.

Post by JR » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:34 am

I have a confession. I used to try to steal quick links on every anchor. I had know clue that two quick links GOOD one quick link BAD. Sorry fellow sport wieners that get annoyed at kinked ropes that slow us down on our way to......drawing a blank here. I am sorry though. I have been trying a little harder to remind myself that everything that isn't tightened down is BOOTY.

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:39 am

Pigsteak is always right!

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:15 am

surely you jest...EVERYthing about climbing is on a case by case basis...very rarely will a generalization work.

plus, I KNOW there are 50 pirahnas on here waiting to jump on board your band wagon. This time, I'd prefer to miss the drama.

that being said, if it is a route I bolted, and it needs fixing, I am with ron and josh...please just PM me.

serioulsy, let me know which route, and I will add chain if you like. you buy

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:38 am

Pigsteak is always right!

I don't know about Muir or the Bloomington Dynamic Duo (Josh and Ron), but we can make donations at teamsuckclimbing.com (hint hint, OW) for the guys who suck in general but rock at bolt replacement.

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:47 am

clarification....no where did I say it is OK for a person to fix a route at Muir. my understanding of the muir valley policy is to inform the FA of the issue, and if that doesn't work, contact Rick.

but if I am at the chains on a route, anywhere, and it is going to saw my rope while being lowered, I would add quicklinks right then without asking. you don't need permission to get yourself down safely.

Post by **512OW** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:53 am

JR wrote:I have a confession. I used to try to steal quick links on every anchor. I had know clue that two quick links GOOD one quick link BAD. Sorry fellow sport wieners that get annoyed at kinked ropes that slow us down on our way to......drawing a blank here. I am sorry though. I have been trying a little harder to remind myself that everything that isn't tightened down is BOOTY.

You mean ISN'T Booty.