bailing and biners

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
ashtray
Posts: 500
Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 3:37 pm

Post by ashtray »

andrew, don't sell yourself short. you still suck.
dhoyne
Posts: 1240
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 5:47 pm

Post by dhoyne »

I never got the point of chain links as bail biners. They cost the same thing as a regular, cheap biner, and they're not rated the same. Will they hold body weight? Sure, but they can be a PIA for the next person to remove / clip into the bolt next to. Keep a cheap biner clipped to your chalk bag, use it if you have to bail.
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.

[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
JR
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

Post by JR »

I have sent many routes that I had previously stick clipped up (I should add that I typically do try to onsite routes). My justification is it could lead to a send if I check out the beta. I would hate to limit myself by an ethic that says "X amount of failure means bail off one bolt"(sounds a lot like the devil was a hangdog thinking). The first time I saw someone stick clipping up a route(Terry Kindred) I was bothered. Why was I bothered? I don't know. I just thought it was silly at the time. Come to find out after watching Terry stick clip up Reliquary he was literally aiding up just to brush all the holds off for his climbing partner. Wow. Now that is some sport climber love. Man, I miss seeing that dude.
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