Dumb drillers, Dumb anchors...

Post by **512OW** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 8:55 pm

I've noticed recently that on several newer sport routes that the anchor setup is just plain garbage.

My favorite are the 2 bolts with 1 quicklink on each bolt.

Garbage.

If you're gonna be a cheapass, at least provide 2 quicklinks on each bolt so that the rope isn't kinked all to hell and the sheath rubbed halfway off when its pulled.

Better yet, stop bolting routes if you're not gonna leave a halfway intelligent anchor station. I'm aware that its expensive, takes alot of hard work, blah blah fuckin blah. So what? You did the work... just spend another $5 and 5 minutes and make it right.

Its too bad theres not an IQ test for potential FAists. There'd be far fewer junk sport routes in the Red.

Post by **anticlmber** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 10:40 pm

i like the old anchors still in place next to new ones. anybody wanna borrow my plasma cutter??

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 8:08 am

and instead of bitchin, how about carrying, say, two extra quicklinks, and putting them on these crappy anchors....

Post by **rhunt** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 8:27 am

512OW and Pigsteak both have good points but I am siding with 512OW. The FAist should do the bare minimum before s/he opens a route. If a FAist can not afford a good set of chain then maybe s/he shouldn't be bolting.

my two cents

Oh and I usually have a few beefy quick links with me so I can fix crappy anchors.

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 8:46 am

I know we all sound ungrateful when we complain, but I think a good point is brought up here. However, Pigsteak is always right!

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:30 am

so let's be big about this, and do the call out. OW, what route specifically are you talking about, so the FA can take care of it? no need throwing around generalizations without action.

to climbers in general, what setup do you prefer on the anchors? does the quicklink and chain setup seem appropriate?

btw, if you guys rapped instead of being lowered,like we chastise all of the gumbies to do, will the single quicklink setup still coil your rope? (honest question, because I am a hypocrite and always get lowered thru the anchors instead of rapping.)

nice bait and switch meadows...you just HAD to act like fixing anchors was someone else's problem...

....

btw, I was on 2 routes this weekend that had the sucky setup, both at Muir. The 10 at Boneyard (Tanduay Time) and a 10 at Sunnyside(just to the right of Suppress the Rage). Gary went and bought chain and a quicklink, and installed them on the 10 at Boneyard. Thanks for being proactive Gary.

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:38 am

Okay, so what you are saying, Pigsteak, is that if I find an anchor set at Muir that trashes my rope, I have permission to fix it?

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:43 am

a flair for the dramatic I must say.... name me one route in the entire red where the anchors "trash" your rope, IF you rap like asked. coil a rope...sure....trash a rope...cough , cough...may I have your "trashed" rope after you get down?

do you really need permission to protect yourself in what you perceive as an injust situation? I realize this is all an argument in theory, as there aren't two climbers in 1,000 who will actually fix the situations mentioned above.

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:45 am

Ah, Pigsteak, nice bait and switch so you don't have to answer the question. One of the routes I'm thinking of is posted on the muirvalley.com bbs.

So Pigsteak, by YOUR authority, I should go fix it. It's a yes or no question. I would be very happy to do so.

Post by **rhunt** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:15 am

pigsteak wrote:to climbers in general, what setup do you prefer on the anchors? does the quicklink and chain setup seem appropriate?

I like the quicklink and chain setup. Its very user friendly and seems to fit well in most anchor situations at the Red. *(notice I said most - not all)*

There are no absolutes with anchor setup's just common setup's that work well at the Red. Right FAists?

Now Pigsteak and Meadows, you may return to your pissing contest.