Open Project

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Bashie
Posts: 67
Joined: Sat May 01, 2004 3:52 am

Open Project

Post by Bashie »

Bolts were installed about 2 years ago at a wall in Muir Valley. I am too weak to climb it. Check it out, take off the red ribbon and send it somebody.
1) hike to the great wall in Muir Valley
2) hang a left at the base of the great wall and hike for 5 minutes, following the trail along the cliff.
3) Chase the bolts up the line of weakness on the obvious, intimidating wall: 45 feet of bouldery funk up to a dirty hueco. Climb out the 15 foot roof, yarding on large flakes. Continue up 30 feet of easier climbing to the anchors.

Notes: 1) bring a 200' cord (pretty sure this is long enough)
2) there might be hideous rope drag after the roof - might have to add anchors. 3) bring a brush - I scrubbed for an hour or two, but there may be a dirty hold somewhere. Belayer should avoid potential rock fall hazards. I'm guessing it's about 5.13a and worth the hike.
weber
Posts: 1017
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 5:44 pm

Post by weber »

Please check in with us before working on this project. There are some approach trail and base issues to resolve first.

Rick
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

You need to do a better job of selling it.

45 feet of stellar bouldering up bullet rock to a perfect hueco. Climb 15 feet out a roof on bomber flakes, and then continue up easier but 6 star moves to the top.

See, thats much better.
Living the dream
kirker
Posts: 495
Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2004 12:05 pm

Post by kirker »

Andrew, Andrew, Andrew.

You forgot the most important part.

"Should go 13a if the crucial holds don't break."

You can't forget the spray man. :wink:
the lurkist
Posts: 2240
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm

Post by the lurkist »

I'm Lovin It!
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Bashie
Posts: 67
Joined: Sat May 01, 2004 3:52 am

Post by Bashie »

I guess that was a lame sales job. Yeah, what Andrew said. It is a spray-worthy wall - this is probably the easiest line on it, with lots of futuristic routes next door. Please PM Rick Weber to work on this route. I think the route is fully equipted, and ready to go, but please talk to him (landowner extrordinaire) if you plan on working the route.
Horatio Felacio
Posts: 3338
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm

Post by Horatio Felacio »

i just sent it yesterday. super classic .12+. thanks for bolting it bashie!
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
Bashie
Posts: 67
Joined: Sat May 01, 2004 3:52 am

Post by Bashie »

Excellent work, Horatio! Man that was quick. You are my hero. Bet that roof was fun. Now bolt a line just to the left: same start, then go left before the pristine hueco. Can't believe it was only 5.12....man I suck.
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