Suggestions for a good 11a/b

Post by **Smoke and Mirrors** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:46 pm

I'm currently working myself into redpointing 11's and I need some suggestions for good solid 11's. I've redpointed Armed Insurection at the Boneyard, but everyone says muir routes are soft. What do you guys think?

Post by **weber** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 7:06 am

Regardless of the area you climb in, you will find differences of opinion on difficulty ratings. Just go back through some of the threads on this forum. Arguments abound. Because the ratings are usually set by the route developers and because there have been a lot of developers in MV, you'll find some ratings soft and others sandbagged. You might get a more accurate picture from the consensus of the opinions of others on the Online Guide on this forum. For example, more comments rated "Armed Insurrection" soft than hard.

Rick

Post by **Andrew** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:04 am

Rick is right. There are definitely some sandbagged routes at muir and many that are right on. What type of routes do you like, vert, steep, one hard move, consistent?

Try whipstocking at driveby.

Post by **Crankmas** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:15 am

I would make a suggestion but Meadows is gonna give me one of those rolly eyes thingies, okay try Return of the Manimal > great here it comes

Post by **kirker** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:27 am

Return of manimal was down graded to 10d.. Good climb thought.. What type of climbing are you good at.. Technical, steep, ect.
Global Village has serval 11's that won't require too much endurance, but have technical moves.

Post by **krampus** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:27 am

whipstocking is great, and if you like that then also try Air Rid Equipped at the solarium.

Post by **Crankmas** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:38 am

those 11's off the shelf at Left Flank are casual too

Post by **Meadows** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:42 am

Crankmas, I've never touched the route. So here's a

just for the comment.

And here's a

for this thread. A possible two-roll?

Post by **rjackson** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:57 am

Whipstocking (11a) at Drive By is awesome. If you can pull some hard moves and recover then Fuzzy Undercling (11b) at Military. Rent a cabin at Torrent and get on Bandolier (11a), solid for the grade. Count Floyd Show (11b) at Phantasia has it all and will keep your attention. I remember Super Dario (11a) at Eastern Sky Bridge being a cool climb. I liked Injured Reserve (11a) at the Motherlode, once I figured out the crux (probably not a good beginning 11, but good for your head nonetheless). Up Yonder (11b) to the first set of chains at Roadside is short and fun once you get your sequence down. Air Ride Equipped (11a) at The Solarium was fun if you don't get sketched on big blocks and can handle big overhangs. Mona Lisa Overdrive (11b) at Solar Collector has a cool hueco and is at a great cool weather crag.

I loved all these climbs.

Post by **anticlmber** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:31 am

whipstocking isn't 11a. 10d. but good none the less.

i just got on psyberpunk at Muir, great route. really good and there are a few tens near it to warm up, get pumped,crush, etc.

just get on a bunch of different 11s. 11a / 11b are some great routes. mainly 11b has the best routes. yellow brick road, oh - henry, maypop, out for justice, king me, snapper. these will let you know what you're up against. enjoy.