Elite level routes

Post by **john e aragon** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:00 pm

Screw super hardcore climbers and hardcore routes. I will never climb at that level so I do not care if we get those routes or those climbers. Keep bolting moderates Pigsteak. Those are the routes myself and most others can do anyway. As for the weather we get great days and crappy ones just like every other place. (I have lived in 30 different states including Alaska). And as far as that other shit goes Eastern Kentucky is a great place to live. My home is rarely locked, my keys stay in my car all the time, I know and care about my neighbors. I feel safe to let my child play outside anytime. TRY THAT IN A LARGE CITY!

Post by **Andrew** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:17 pm

You have NO clue what is really important in life.

Post by **ReachHigh** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:52 pm

john e aragon wrote:\ my keys stay in my car all the time,

I'll remeber that, even though it doesn't matter, I could just tow it again.

Post by **bcombs** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:58 pm

john e aragon wrote:...My home is rarely locked, my keys stay in my car all the time...

And that address was again?

Oh, is it a nice car? Because gas is not cheap and I don't want to drive down there for nothing.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:35 pm

I disagree Andrew. Not worrying about security all the time sounds pretty cool to me. I drive around with lots of tools . I know I'll get ripped off sooner or later.

Post by **512OW** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:49 pm

Andrew has it right. Its the people.

I spoke at length with Joe Kinder in Salt Lake last week before the Trade Show, and hes WELL aware of the hard route potential at the Red. Hes super psyched to get on "50 Words", on repeating "Lucifer", and all the other unclimbed routes. He'd already heard of the Chocolate Factory and the routes going up there.

Hes planning on spending a month here, and judging by the fact that he did 3 14's in the week I was in Salt Lake, I'd say he'll be sending some things.

And thats not to mention the even stronger guys....

Post by **tomdarch** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:53 pm

Saxman wrote:
pigsteak wrote:tell ya what wolf..it isn't too fun bolting that far over my head....call me cheap, but I don't want to spend money on hardware , not counting my time, on routes that I will never/ever even get to taste. anything out of the 5.12 range and I'd rather have one of the strong guys bolt it.....allah (cough, cough), etc...now, if sopmeone wants to buy the hardware, I might be convinced.
Pansy. Just think, you could bolt the next project for some elite climber and get your name in the mags. Look at the fame and glory you are passing by with your narrow economically self centered view of route development.

Whenever I read that a crazy hard route was equipped by so-and-so, I assume that the equipper at least had a shot at sending the route. So go equip some crazy stuff, someone sends it, and when you're on a road trip you can casually say around the campfire, "oh, you were just talking about Unlubed Rectal Fisting at the Red, yeah, I put that up. Sure that sponsored climber beat me to the send, but, well, with good conditions/when I recover from this injury/when my shipment of steroids arrives, I'll get it this season..." Guys will give you beers and chicks will dig you!

Post by **TankAzz** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:55 am

tomdarch wrote: Whenever I read that a crazy hard route was equipped by so-and-so, I assume that the equipper at least had a shot at sending the route. So go equip some crazy stuff, someone sends it, and when you're on a road trip you can casually say around the campfire, "oh, you were just talking about Unlubed Rectal Fisting at the Red, yeah, I put that up. Sure that sponsored climber beat me to the send, but, well, with good conditions/when I recover from this injury/when my shipment of steroids arrives, I'll get it this season..." Guys will give you beers and chicks will dig you!

oh my gosh, that is so funny

i'm not even going to attempt to chime in on this thread... i reek of inexperience, at least as far as the red goes..
my question is, for people who do climb 5.14 and up, how many actually go out and equip routes? is this number high? if not, it seems silly to expect others to bolt routes for them, just for the recognition of being the equipper. i do think it would bring more people to the red, but i think that it's nice when sponsored, pro climbers are actually putting the work in as well.

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:08 am

well said Tank....lots of times I bolt lines that look inspiring for me to climb, and are within my ability. shouldn't the elite do the same? that is, unless Petzl wants to put some equippers on payroll..then I'll bolt whatever they ask. Kenny, you game?

Post by **Crankmas** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:52 am

isn't it the nature of the top end climbers to be transient any way? I'm looking back at Squamish and the 5.14s on one house sized boulder and then think of the weather over the year and its like these guys aren't gonna sit thru a canuck winter so why would they hang at the Red for a super extended period, Kinder's month long trip sounds like the right amount of time for almost anywhere to me.> ( elite 5.8 climber). I'm still waiting on Strevels to get in shape anyway, then look out homey.