Bcombs... your assessment of strength to weight ratio is correct. I lost 10 lbs. in a few weeks last year, and instantly my endurance was through the roof. It had nothing to do with training... only weight loss. Of course, I was losing extra weight. There comes a point at which losing weight is detrimental to your strength.
All the bullshit about hurting joints is just that....bullshit. If they are going to get hurt, they'll get hurt worse doing dynamic moves than they will with 10 extra lbs.
Obviously if you're stupid and dynoing to mono pockets while weighted... then you deserve a tendon injury.
All that said, there are certainly other ways to get strong enough to climb 5.12. There will ALWAYS be other ways. There is no end all to training...
If a certain type of training doesn't work for you.... try another. Its all in the brain. Once you believe it, it'll happen....
Training with added weight...
Yeah, that's what got me here.captain static wrote:Bcombs, have you made an assessment of your weaknesses?
I feel like I have finger strength under control , I have no mental blocks about leading or whatever, but I lack some power. The real issue is that I'm not really built to be a good climber. I'm short, stocky, and have a negative ape index. So, the only thing I feel I can do is embrace the fact that I've never had trouble with power in other areas of life (sports), so I'm trying to maximize it in climbing. I do try to include alot of cardio into my workouts. For example my current routine is bouldering 3 days a week and running (usually 8 miles) on the 3 off days. This seems to be working pretty good as long as I'm diligent about fueling myself. I have to focus and get over the whole weight loss mentality that has cluttered my climbing goals pretty much since I started.Edit: I forgot to mention I do pilates two days a week, I actually really like it although I thought I wouldn't when I first saw the video.
Rhunt, I'm glad you said that. Can you elaborate on what exercises you did that were specific to climbing. Believe me when I say that if someone told me a workout I could do in the gym that would isolate and increase power in the muscles used in climbing I'd be all for it!rhunt wrote:One year I spend a lot of time weight training doing climbing specific exercises and concentrated on leg stuff that increased strenght but not mass. I also did a lot of core stuff then too and both helped a lot. I was in really good cardio shape and my legs and core where both very strong in was they needed to be to climb...that made a huge difference that year.
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captain static
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I know that you have your own woody but if it is power you seek young bcombs, then come to Climb Time.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
if adding weight is working then by all means do it. The technique is no substitute for power idea should be taken in context. If you are bouldering or doing mostly short power routes then yes your limiting factor will be power and technique will not likely help. But that's not what we usually come up against at the red.
Anyway, train hard and have fun.
Oh and I am going to take 512OW advice and believe that sitting around eating ice cream will make it happen for me....I'll be watching climbing videos and brain training.
Anyway, train hard and have fun.
Oh and I am going to take 512OW advice and believe that sitting around eating ice cream will make it happen for me....I'll be watching climbing videos and brain training.
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
Yeah, that's what Andrew keeps preaching too. Maybe I should listen! 8)captain static wrote:I know that you have your own woody but if it is power you seek young bcombs, then come to Climb Time.
Alright, alright, I'm listening!512OW wrote:Its all endurance training right now. Power starts in September, at Climb Time.
it was a lot of cool stuff a trainer showed me. Things like single leg step ups while reaching for a fixed point above. Lots of standing core strength exercises. I remember it was important to do single leg/arm exercises. I did a shit load of body weight assisted pull ups which I locked off at the top...those really helped my lock off strenght. I'd have to go back and see if I still have it all written down.bcombs wrote:Rhunt, I'm glad you said that. Can you elaborate on what exercises you did that were specific to climbing. Believe me when I say that if someone told me a workout I could do in the gym that would isolate and increase power in the muscles used in climbing I'd be all for it!rhunt wrote:One year I spend a lot of time weight training doing climbing specific exercises and concentrated on leg stuff that increased strenght but not mass. I also did a lot of core stuff then too and both helped a lot. I was in really good cardio shape and my legs and core where both very strong in was they needed to be to climb...that made a huge difference that year.
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
No winks needed. Thats how I learned to climb 5.12 cracks. But no videos... just books.rhunt wrote:
Oh and I am going to take 512OW advice and believe that sitting around eating ice cream will make it happen for me....I'll be watching climbing videos and brain training.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com