Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
512OW
Posts: 3040 Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm
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by 512OW Tue Jul 24, 2007 2:06 am
TradMike wrote: Everything will go all cams in the Red much faster and easier.
Not a chance. You obviously haven't led too terribly many trad routes in the Red...
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
JR
Posts: 1128 Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm
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by JR Tue Jul 24, 2007 4:48 pm
flint wrote:
I would tend to think stoppers and other passives create pressure on a wider surface, and there for is better for soft rock.
[/quote]
I don't think this is correct.
TradMike
Posts: 1173 Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am
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by TradMike Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:03 pm
512OW wrote: TradMike wrote: Everything will go all cams in the Red much faster and easier.
Not a chance. You obviously haven't led too terribly many trad routes in the Red...
Name a couple that can't. We will see.
Wes
Posts: 6530 Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm
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by Wes Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:05 pm
Jack the ripper is one I would really not want to lead with out some stoppers.
TradMike wrote:
"There is no secret ingredient"
Wes
Posts: 6530 Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm
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by Wes Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:15 pm
And synconicity as well. Would not be a fun lead without some stoppers. At. All. Unless you don't mind pretty much free soloing most of it.
Wes wrote: Jack the ripper is one I would really not want to lead with out some stoppers.
TradMike wrote:
"There is no secret ingredient"
pigsteak
Posts: 9684 Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm
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by pigsteak Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:25 pm
andrew and I climbed synchronicity without stoppers..ask him about the passive pro he placed that blew
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Yasmeen
Posts: 4663 Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am
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by Yasmeen Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:39 pm
I've fallen more than once on cams on both Jack the Ripper and Synchronicity where the old schoolers would place passive pro, and nothing's ever ripped.
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
rhunt
Posts: 3202 Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm
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by rhunt Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:41 pm
yes I agree being 100% active or 100% passive is not the way to go, it's much better to be versatile, the best of both worlds.
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
Andrew
Posts: 3809 Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm
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by Andrew Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:54 pm
knotted cord is the only way to climb synchronicity.
Living the dream
Wes
Posts: 6530 Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm
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by Wes Tue Jul 24, 2007 7:22 pm
Yasmeen , So, you led both of them with only cams? I have no doubt that it can be done, but "faster and easier" as Mike said? I don't think so, and not safer either.
"There is no secret ingredient"
