50 footer on Double Trouble

Post by **goodguy** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 2:26 am

So I spaced posting this but here goes. On Monday the 1st I was at Wall of Denial and as I walked down the trail and past DT, I noticed a rope hanging and gear still in as if someone had gotten to the cracks end and lowered to get their head in it or let someone else try. I continued past the route around the corner and 2 guys on New Red River say to me did you see our rope over there? I say yes. The belayer then says I just took a 50 footer and decked because 3 pieces blew and my rope was completely de-sheathed when it was pulled up through the crack in the roof!

The climber and belayer were totally fine and after some discussion I was wondering if maybe some of the routes with anchors above total choss and 20 feet above the end of a crack should maybe be retro fitted with a slightly lower set of anchors.

Im not saying anything about the gear that blew only that I have been on many a route in the red that has anchors really high after a crack stops and above really bad rock. The climber did fall only after a foot hold broke. I have done this route and the rock up high is less than bullet, comments please.

Post by **charlie** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 4:55 am

Ask the F.A.

Post by **the lurkist** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:21 am

I am the FA. NO FUCKING WAY, RICK. It is trad climbing, you are supposed to stick your neck out a bit. English have a saying, "Boats are safe in harbors, but that isn't what boats are for, now are they?"
Besides, lowering the anchor wouldn't change the fact that the rope pulls through a roof.

Post by **Buster** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:53 am

good ending

Post by **SCIN** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:21 pm

That's not Rick, Lurkist.

Post by **anticlmber** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:31 pm

trad climbing should be banned.

Post by **Buster** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:32 pm

I'm pretty sure that Lurkist is aware that goodguy isn't Rick.
"Rick" is the new "sweet heart".

Post by **redpointron** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 2:19 pm

Buster wrote:I'm pretty sure that Lurkist is aware that goodguy isn't Rick.
"Rick" is the new "homo".

Post by JR » Sat Jul 14, 2007 4:53 pm

I guess that is that. O well the route is still good. I do remember the not so cool top part. Took me a long time to locate the anchors. I went way left to another crack system and then up to find them. I am still not sure what you are supposed to do. It would have been nice and a bit safer to not have to play the Where the F*** are the Anchors game. On the other hand it is Lurkist's call.

Post by **512OW** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 5:46 pm

Did pro pull because of the rock quality? Doubtful. Falling off of any route and pulling 3 pieces will nearly deposit you back to the ground, assuming all the gear is spaced normally. So should all cracks be bolted? Better yet, lets all just toprope.

My answer... learn to place gear. I've taken hundreds, if not thousands of falls on gear, and only one piece has ever pulled on me... and I didn't place it.