The Arena - your input, feedback, criticism wanted!

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Jun 24, 2003 1:37 am

I just might take those 2 weeks in August and live in the Southern Region!! I had no idea the Arena was so extensive!! This is awesome...

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 12:34 pm

The Arena is in the guidebook, ripe for corrections/additions. Any input, bring it on!

Post by **tomdarch** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 8:01 pm

Lynne wrote:The Arena is in the guidebook, ripe for corrections/additions. Any input, bring it on!

I just printed out the guide page and the sketch you posted at the beginning of this thread. This weekend, I will attempt to lure some 'arena virgins' back in there and see what they think!

Post by **Horgeezy** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 5:32 pm

I went down there for the first time last week, It's by far my favorite place. Usually not very many people and alot of sweet climbs. I usually onsight mid 10's so the spot with 5 or so in a row was just awesome!!

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 6:27 pm

I don't need opinions, I need data! The Arena is a freakin work of art, no question.

Post by **deleted username** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 10:39 pm

My route there (chocolate waterfall) was FA'd by me and Johnny. It is a dark brown slab that is harder than it appears from the ground. It's reachy past the first bolt and has a pretty powerful move at the crux above the second bolt. It always looks wet due to it's dark chocolaty color. It's clean, fun, and goes all the way to the top. I'm surprised more folks haven't done it. It's not Shaggy classic or anything though... something to aspire to I guess.

Post by **tomdarch** » Mon Jun 30, 2003 7:36 pm

maz wrote:If Karmic Disruption is a .10c, I'd better quit climbing.

If Karmic Disruption is a .10d, then I've got serious problems, too. I'm 6'2" with a bit of reach and that was really rough, even on TR. Maybe something broke on it, but we couldn't find a scar. It's a good route, but compared to the 11a/b routes that I've redpointed and routes up to 12a that I've worked, my sense is that it's mid to hard 11. It was much harder for me than Possum Lips or Breakfast Burrito.

This brings up the issue of "10d" being like "9+". It seems to be used frequently to sandbag routes.

Info: 8 bolts; Anchors: 2 staggered bolts, 1 quick-link on the lower bolt and a chain to the higher bolt. No redundant lower-off or TR gear.

Post by **tomdarch** » Mon Jun 03, 2024 5:42 pm

I see that the online guide has been updated with Karmic Disruption at 11d, which sounds about right to me! (particularly considering that no one has claimed to have done it!) But it raises the question - who the hell ever thought it was 10c?!?