so I added like a hundred moves and traversed over.
Has anyone ever missed that jump and lived to walk?
WOOHOO
don't do it...
hook up with a friend who has a full rack for your first time out....
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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- Posts: 3338
- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm
Way to go Yas! I remember leading Father and Son all passive and since you have that one dialed in would probably be another good one for you to practice on with your set of nuts. Green eggs and ham would also be good. You might also try the first pitch of Party Time. It's 5.7 and I remember getting a couple of really good nuts in. Also, let me know if you would like a donation to your rack. I have an old set of hexes that I would like to either burn or give away.
Jeez, you leave for 5 days and everyone responds to your thread! So... Loren, I was in CO, just got back, but it was with my family so the only climbing I got in was some bouldering at Garden of the Gods (which was gorgeous). Lynne, yeah, I missed the start to Jump For Joy... many times over, but fortunately it was while I was still too chicken to lead, so the only result was that I left some skin from my elbows on the rock. Sam, you better believe I'm up for taking a donation!! (Are the hexes as sketchy as your 0.5 cam? ) All the others that asked, I've followed lots of trad, but have only lead Father and Son, so yeah, I'm looking for some experience and plan to do a lot more following of pros.
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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(Emails > PMs)
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- Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 2:00 am
If your tricams are falling out when you move past them, then your orientation is bad, or it just wasn't meant to be used in that spot. Tricams are awesome in horizontal placements and where the rock is slightly more featured. Still, you need to orient the piece so that it just isn't camming (rocking) into a nub on the rock, but also facing slightly forward.
That said, the springy cams ROCK.
That said, the springy cams ROCK.
Don't forget that tri-cams are the one piece you really have to set once you place them with a good tug. They come out pretty easy with a nut tool if your second knows how to push on 'em. Once you are comfortable with them they are a great piece of gear. However, I do agree that it is not a good piece of pro for those hairy times when you need to, "plug and chug."
On five finger discount, the easiest anchors to get to are on Jump for Joy. Just take the high ground and keep going up and right on the ledges. The traverse is a bit more sketchy to the others and the anchors are hard to reach.
"how ironic....now he's blind after a life of enjoying being able to see."~Homer