First, off I did not personally "sculpt" a hold in Muir. Nor, did I authorize anyone to do so - other than the occasional practice of smoothing an area that tends to cut or shread ropes. For an example, there is knife edge that damaged a rope rigged as a TR above "Short and Sweet" during our Climbing Camp. In the near future, I will either smooth that edge or put in different anchors.
There are no "new moderates" at the BruiseBrothers Wall. And, this "old dad" did not improve a clipping hold there.
In MV - No holds will be created. No holds have been created or enhanced. Perhaps one exception - a couple years ago, a prank was played by developers when they temporarily bolted a chunk of rock onto a route -- an act that caused much wailing and gnashing of teeth by self-proclaimed rock ethicists, before they realized is was done as a joke.
In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock. They hammer-drill holes in it, beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, smooth knife edges, and scrape and brush it. On a new route, the first hundred or so climbers inadvertently further sculpt the route by breaking off small pieces until the rock face becomes fairly stabilized. In this sense we are all rock sculptors.
Authorized route developers in MV agree to follow rules and guidelines that prohibit deliberate creating of holds.
If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.
If someone at Bruisebrothers was indeed sculpting an improvement on a hold, they did not have my permission. Please report any such incidents directly to us in the future.
Rick
Sculptor Loose @ Muir!
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BS! Not all route developers beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, scrape and brush. This is what it takes to do routes @ Muir. Please to not confuse this with normal practiceweber wrote: In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock. They hammer-drill holes in it, beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, smooth knife edges, and scrape and brush it. On a new route, the first hundred or so climbers inadvertently further sculpt the route by breaking off small pieces until the rock face becomes fairly stabilized. In this sense we are all rock sculptors.
Not a problem.weber wrote: If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.
...and step lively because the Prince of the Pile and your neighborhood watch officer will be by in the morning to collect urine samples.weber wrote: If someone at Bruisebrothers was indeed sculpting an improvement on a hold, they did not have my permission. Please report any such incidents directly to us in the future.
Thank you. I stand corrected. Just my opinion - not all, but most developers do most or all of these practices.Buster wrote:...Not all route developers beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, scrape and brush.weber wrote: In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock...
Rick
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
weber wrote:
If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.
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Good one, Rick. And I heartily agree.
I know it's sort of of a non sequitur, but I'm reminded of the movie where, when someone asks Steve Martin, "Do you mind if I smoke," he replies, "Do you mind if I fart?"
ZSpiddy
If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.
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Good one, Rick. And I heartily agree.
I know it's sort of of a non sequitur, but I'm reminded of the movie where, when someone asks Steve Martin, "Do you mind if I smoke," he replies, "Do you mind if I fart?"
ZSpiddy
uh, yes.Pru wrote: uh, so chipping is okay if a landowner does it?
But as I said before, I have neither done it nor authorized it in MV.
Pru wrote:Idiot.
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau