Sculptor Loose @ Muir!

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
weber
Posts: 1017
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 5:44 pm

Post by weber »

First, off I did not personally "sculpt" a hold in Muir. Nor, did I authorize anyone to do so - other than the occasional practice of smoothing an area that tends to cut or shread ropes. For an example, there is knife edge that damaged a rope rigged as a TR above "Short and Sweet" during our Climbing Camp. In the near future, I will either smooth that edge or put in different anchors.

There are no "new moderates" at the BruiseBrothers Wall. And, this "old dad" did not improve a clipping hold there.

In MV - No holds will be created. No holds have been created or enhanced. Perhaps one exception - a couple years ago, a prank was played by developers when they temporarily bolted a chunk of rock onto a route -- an act that caused much wailing and gnashing of teeth by self-proclaimed rock ethicists, before they realized is was done as a joke.

In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock. They hammer-drill holes in it, beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, smooth knife edges, and scrape and brush it. On a new route, the first hundred or so climbers inadvertently further sculpt the route by breaking off small pieces until the rock face becomes fairly stabilized. In this sense we are all rock sculptors.

Authorized route developers in MV agree to follow rules and guidelines that prohibit deliberate creating of holds.

If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.

If someone at Bruisebrothers was indeed sculpting an improvement on a hold, they did not have my permission. Please report any such incidents directly to us in the future.

Rick
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
5.15climbers
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:20 pm

Post by 5.15climbers »

fat out of shape phucks need clipping holds too!
Buster
Posts: 364
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 3:55 pm

Post by Buster »

weber wrote: In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock. They hammer-drill holes in it, beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, smooth knife edges, and scrape and brush it. On a new route, the first hundred or so climbers inadvertently further sculpt the route by breaking off small pieces until the rock face becomes fairly stabilized. In this sense we are all rock sculptors.
BS! Not all route developers beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, scrape and brush. This is what it takes to do routes @ Muir. Please to not confuse this with normal practice

weber wrote: If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.
Not a problem.
weber wrote: If someone at Bruisebrothers was indeed sculpting an improvement on a hold, they did not have my permission. Please report any such incidents directly to us in the future.
...and step lively because the Prince of the Pile and your neighborhood watch officer will be by in the morning to collect urine samples.
Shamis
Posts: 1343
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:11 pm

Post by Shamis »

This thread really leaves a lot of questions for the casual reader. Entertaining nevertheless.
weber
Posts: 1017
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 5:44 pm

Post by weber »

Buster wrote:
weber wrote: In reality, all route developers "sculpt" rock...
...Not all route developers beat the area around the hangers flat, trundle off flakes, break off crusties, scrape and brush.
Thank you. I stand corrected. Just my opinion - not all, but most developers do most or all of these practices.

Rick
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
Zspider
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 3:02 pm

Post by Zspider »

weber wrote:

If I do decide to sculpt or chip something in the future, and you find this offensive, please feel free to avoid MV.

***********
Good one, Rick. And I heartily agree.

I know it's sort of of a non sequitur, but I'm reminded of the movie where, when someone asks Steve Martin, "Do you mind if I smoke," he replies, "Do you mind if I fart?"

ZSpiddy
weber
Posts: 1017
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 5:44 pm

Post by weber »

:lol:
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
Pru

Post by Pru »

Total Fucking Muggle wrote: Good one, Rick. And I heartily agree.

I know it's sort of of a non sequitur, but I'm reminded of the movie where, when someone asks Steve Martin, "Do you mind if I smoke," he replies, "Do you mind if I fart?"
uh, so chipping is okay if a landowner does it?

Idiot.
KD
Posts: 3155
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 1:21 am

Post by KD »

you what would look good would be one of those saint francis statues - let the rhodos grow all around it - sweet.
weber
Posts: 1017
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 5:44 pm

Post by weber »

Pru wrote: uh, so chipping is okay if a landowner does it?
uh, yes.

But as I said before, I have neither done it nor authorized it in MV.
Pru wrote:Idiot.
:lol:
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
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