Flash Effort

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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How much effort do you put into your flash attempt?

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512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

Toy wrote:
And beta isn't always right. Chalk does give you an idea of where to go and what sequence to use. Thats not a real onsight... just a "sport" onsight, which is actually a flash.
Doesn't the crack tell you where to go in trad climbing?
Sure. Just like the rock tells you where to go in any type of climbing. The crack isn't added by other climbers. It was there in the beginning...

What an idiotic statement....
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

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der uber
Posts: 1044
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 2:42 am

Post by der uber »

I don't try to flash something that I know will be a longer term project - in that case I'm starting off Goddard style.

If I usually do well on the grade and have flashed at that level or close to it before, I will gun for it.
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Meadows
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

512OW wrote:
Toy wrote:
And beta isn't always right. Chalk does give you an idea of where to go and what sequence to use. Thats not a real onsight... just a "sport" onsight, which is actually a flash.
Doesn't the crack tell you where to go in trad climbing?
Sure. Just like the rock tells you where to go in any type of climbing. The crack isn't added by other climbers. It was there in the beginning...

What an idiotic statement....
Then you can't onsight in trad? Just curious - not being smart.

I had this friend who used every non chalked crimp next to well chalked jugs on classic routes like Fuzzy. Is that onsighting or just goofy? Actually, isn't hold discovery a frequent occurence in sport climbing? It often means a lower grade for the route though.
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Yasmeen
Posts: 4663
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am

Post by Yasmeen »

It's an FA! Ask him what he wants to name it and I'll put it in the guidebook right away.
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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Yasmeen
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Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am

Post by Yasmeen »

After all...
piggie, in the tick spray thread, wrote:um, tomdarch, that is for when we have to take gumbies like you to the crag and wait for you to hangdog up our warmups...we tick those "crappy" holds on your proj because our proj is over the top of yours. those "crappy" holds are what we campus off of to pass the time.
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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Meadows
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Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

Ha, I'm sure it should be something like, "Lead Astray" or "Work Offline?"
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

after all, yasmeen....blfffffffttttttt
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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Yasmeen
Posts: 4663
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am

Post by Yasmeen »

Pig, I can't help that I commit everything you write/say to memory so that I can use it against you later. It's kind of like breathing for me.
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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Pru

Post by Pru »

mmmmm, bacon
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Toy
Posts: 292
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 9:16 pm

Post by Toy »

Sure. Just like the rock tells you where to go in any type of climbing. The crack isn't added by other climbers. It was there in the beginning...
Talk about redefining geology. What do you say about that Dr. Ho?

The big man had the foresight to create those cracks "in the beginning" huh? Was that one of the displays you saw at your fieldtrip to theCreationist Museum? I guess he knew there would be people out there that itchin' to scale vertical wall, tempt gravity, yet too weak to compete in the sport climbing arena.
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