Bolting at the Zoo

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 12:05 pm

Johnny, what's up with the long runouts between bolts? Usually between the 3rd and 4th bolts on many routes there was a 30-ish foot runout. Is there a strip of rotten rock or are you just trying to improve people's mental game?

Also, which routes have been added since the old guidebook was put out? I'm still trying to figure out if what I got on was One Brick Shy...

Post by **SikMonkey** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 12:54 pm

Yas,
the route that starts on the boulder and heads straight up and kind of to the left is OBS, while the one that heads obviously off right is Skin the Cat. Also, I think that those runouts are meant to be protected naturally.

Mj

Post by **SikMonkey** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 12:57 pm

Oh yeah, was the Zoo dry?

Mj

Post by **Johnny** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 3:25 pm

I think the only one with a really long runout was Geezers Go Sport that does have an optional cam. The slabs are pretty uniformly bolted I thought. Cannonball and Zebra pass a large ledge. I generally don't put a bolt you can clip off a large ledge because it wouldn't do any good in a fall (you'd hit the ledge anyway), so sometimes I'll put one a few moves above a ledge at least. Maybe Jailbird is a bit that way. Perhaps they feel runout because of this.
The only new routes not in my book are Jailbird (10c?) right of Chimp; Skin the Cat (11a?) right of One Brick Shy and Scar Tissue (11d) right of Hippocrite.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 4:38 pm

Yeah the Zoo was totally dry, it was a great day for it. Thanks for the explanation Johnny-- I don't know a whole lot about bolting, so it's nice to have stuff like that explained. The slabs were protected very well, I was talking about the stuff in the amphitheater near and to the left of Geezers Go Sport (that's the one that doesn't start on a boulder and is to the right of One Brick Shy, right?).

Post by **rhunt** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:27 pm

Hey is the Zoo the big pile of loose rocks is was 5 years ago? Last time I was there, I pulled off a very 'chalked' hold the size of my head and nearly killed my belayer with it!!

Post by **Johnny** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 6:17 pm

Yas, GGS is to the left of OBS, which I think you meant to say.

Rhunt, yep, it's still a big choss pile. Climb on granite instead.

Post by **rhunt** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 7:26 pm

Jonny,

Granite...didn't know there were granite cliffs at the red?

Kwas · Post by **Kwas** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 7:34 pm

I hate it when that happens. Long run-outs just seem to take the sport out of "sport" climbing.

Post by **Eric** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 7:46 pm

but, they put the climbing back in sport climbing