arachnid gear

Post by **Mrs.climbeRPh** » Wed May 23, 2007 8:20 pm

I noticed in the book that you need a #5 camalot half way out the roof, then protect the horizontals at the end of the roof; but what about the rest of the way up.......it looks kinda wide. Should I bring more wide pieces or can you protect inside with smaller stuff, or do I need to pucker and run?

Post by **Jeff** » Wed May 23, 2007 8:28 pm

Depending on your personal pucker factor, move through the wider section after the roof to smaller gear placements.
It's not that far to a good piece and you'll be placing from a good stance.

Post by **Snowpuppy** » Wed May 23, 2007 8:36 pm

Don't protect the traverse, put a hex in the corner of the roof then move on. Then climb through the offwidth. #1 and #2 camalot will suffice for the rest of the climb.

Post by **Mrs.climbeRPh** » Wed May 23, 2007 8:40 pm

thanks for the beta options.
Brenda

Post by **anticlmber** » Wed May 23, 2007 9:03 pm

a #4 works great midway out the roof. the hex in the corner is great but the rope runs funny after that. a #6 in the offwidth will work, but your second will end up catching it in the crotch before they get to it. (thanks dario)

Post by **ynot** » Wed May 23, 2007 9:16 pm

Snowpuppy, if you dont protect under the roof you will smash into the corner if you peel from the lip. I had a piece half way out the roof and still came close to hitting the wall. A #3 bro in the OW as soon as you stand up after the roof move keeps the rope from snagging in a cam underneath.

Post by **Bruisebrother** » Thu May 24, 2007 12:48 am

ynot's been there. Hex in the corner. (used to be fixed) #4 / #5 out near the end of the roof and a #1 1/2 tricam in a horizontal on the face ( To keep the #4/#5 in if you fall before your next piece) then up to easy gear above the body slot. Follow the Puppy's advice, slip on the face or out of the slot and you will hit the face to the left below the roof! It was done in the 80's resulting in cracked ribs! Climb-Safe.

Post by **quicksilver** » Thu May 24, 2007 2:33 am

I am just a chicken shit old fart climber, so I usually place excessive gear.
I fell at the end of the traverse several years back and it was the coolest
trad fall I remember taking. I had a cam where the vertical crack meets the traverse, another cam in the middle, and a third at the end. Each had a two foot runner on the piece. The pieces formed a perfect three point anchor when I fell. It was the closest thing I ever saw to text book. The crazy thing was that I had climbed to that point the week before and was scared to move up. So I down climbed the whole thing - like that made more sense than climbing on. Anyway I returned with a big bro thinking I would place it above the traverse thereby keeping me on top rope as I prefer - I fell while searching for the placement. After that I cruised on up as the chicken shit butterflies were gone. That's the way I would pro it.
Injury sucks and keeps you from doing what you love to do. I think if the one piece blew at the corner it would certainly have the potential for injury.
Climb On!

Post by **ynot** » Thu May 24, 2007 3:24 am

Do all 4 of those 8's while you are at Tower. They're all stellar and you learn different lessons on each one. Nobody does Green Grease but it rocks. It's well worth climbing the Grunge route to get to.

Post by **anticlmber** » Thu May 24, 2007 3:25 am

i think we should just put a bolt,(or three) on that thing. for safety sakes.