BOHICA beta

Post by **enlighten_me** » Tue May 22, 2007 8:52 pm

I was pretty tired trying out this route, but I didn't think I'd have trouble at the beginning given that the guidebook says the first part is like 5.12a and people have commented on the whole climb being V3.

I had trouble between the 3rd and 4th bolt - the heavily chalked areas suggest I make a big move (for my height) to a patch of small pockets to the left. I stuck the most positive feeling pocket patch with two fingers, then moved to a high small pocket with my right hand. At that point, either my left fingers slip out of the pocket, or I have too much momentum going into the high right pocket and bounce off it.

Am I missing something here? Should I pinch the patch of pockets?

Post by **allah** » Tue May 22, 2007 9:22 pm

sounds about right, when you hit the right hand pocket get a good left foot and go to a good hold

Post by **enlighten_me** » Tue May 22, 2007 10:49 pm

Before going for the right pocket, should I high-step right on the previous rail or something else?

Post by JR » Wed May 23, 2007 2:43 am

"first part is like 12a" it doesn't really mean it is 12a it means if this part feels hard go ahead and bail the undertow wall is directly to the right.

Post by **allah** » Thu May 24, 2007 12:12 am

You should have a good foot somwhere right there