Sketchy bolts....

Post by **michaelarmand** » Tue May 01, 2007 12:52 am

What is the process to replace fixed hardware? I was at purple valley and there are at least a few climbs with rusted out, very loose bolts. "A way of life" was ridiculous, the guide warns about them and I got some trad gear in but still... The bolts on "captain one eye" seem to have been recently upgraded...can the same bo done for the other routes? There are some other routes that are missing hangars!! I have no drill or know-how....but I'd chip in some $ for the hardware.

Or I could just start climbing with depends

Post by **charlie** » Tue May 01, 2007 12:58 am

Report bad stuff at http://www.teamsuckclimbing.com.

Buy beerz and donate to the bolt fund.

Post by **Wes** » Tue May 01, 2007 1:28 am

Yeah, pretty much all the crags out 9a/b need major work: long wall, pebble beach, purple valley, pistol ridge, muscle beach, etc. They are on the list to get done soon, but we had a little setback with the drillz last week. Hopefully, we will get to them by the end of summer. Perhaps we ALL could do a voluntary new route moratorium, until we get some of the back log of re-bolting taken care of.

Post by **captain static** » Tue May 01, 2007 3:07 am

Wes wrote:Perhaps we ALL could do a voluntary new route moratorium, until we get some of the back log of re-bolting taken care of.

Good suggestion Wes or maybee a variation, for every new route you want to bolt, you have to fix an old one first. It should also be remembered to respect the FA's intent and not to change a route (i.e. add more bolts) w/o permission from the FA. For example "Way of Life" doesn't have anchors but tops out which I think is kinda cool.

Post by **michaelarmand** » Tue May 01, 2007 11:51 am

I did donate to the bolt fund....thats cool we actually have a site to report bad bolts. And the topout on a way of life definitely is best part of the route!

Pru · Post by **Pru** » Tue May 01, 2007 5:11 pm

Wes wrote:Yeah, pretty much all the crags out 9a/b need major work: long wall, pebble beach, purple valley, pistol ridge, muscle beach, etc. They are on the list to get done soon, but we had a little setback with the drillz last week. Hopefully, we will get to them by the end of summer. Perhaps we ALL could do a voluntary new route moratorium, until we get some of the back log of re-bolting taken care of.

Count me in for some bolt replacement work. I can get a drill and just need a quickie refresher. The offer stands indefinitely since apparently I'm not a climber anymore. Just let me know when you need me and where.

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue May 01, 2007 5:48 pm

pru will do the replacement part for me, and I'll continue to bolt choss...as soon as the wife gives me the drill back.

Pru · Post by **Pru** » Tue May 01, 2007 5:52 pm

Okay, Piggie, but only if you put up some chossy slabs. You know I love 'em!

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue May 01, 2007 6:00 pm

pru wrote:I just need a quickie... Just let me know when you need me and where.

I'll definitely let you know.

Post by **rhunt** » Tue May 01, 2007 6:09 pm

how about no more new routes utill all the cliffs are updated...including Funk Rock.