Gung Ho Rest

Post by **steep4me** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:22 pm

I am trying to redpoint Gung Ho and I did it with one hang last week without using the "rest" out right. So...here's my question--

I am afraid of the rest bcause I hate climbing sideways from the bolt line, but I think I need it. Can anyone tell me what it is like getting on and off this rest and if there is any good "resting beta" that could help me out?

I know I am lame, but I would feel better knowing about it before I go sketching sideways over there.

Post by **Lateralus** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:32 pm

why not just climb over there and find out?

Post by **Yasmeen** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:35 pm

I haven't been on Gung Ho in awhile, but here's what I remember...

I think you can clip a bolt somewhere around your waist before you go traversing to the right. So, there's no reason to sketch about traversing. If you mess something up and whip, you'll pendulum a little, but it shouldn't be a dangerous fall.

Personally, if a sit-down/no-hands/kneebar/etc. rest is too hard for me to get into, I try to just shake out on nearby jugs, making sure to shift my hips and weight each time I switch hands such that my arms get well rested. Don't get me wrong - if there's a good/easy no hands rest, I'll take it. But if I'm just going to get pumped getting back out of it, I don't mess with it. I think that area of Gung Ho has some decent holds to shake out on if you're sketched out by the rest out right.

Post by **Meadows** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:49 pm

Bodde's Beta to me in getting in the rest practically hands free:

there is a perfect scoop out right perfect for the left side of your rump. Put your left leg down and put your right toe in the hueco (you'll figure out which one) and balance yourself.

Remember that you're moving along big holds. Don't be a wuss.

Post by **mcrib** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:11 pm

leave it to Gorge to work out the no hands.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:45 pm

i just heard that the rest is being sold on ebay for $1. don't be a cheap bitch and go for full value.

Post by **steep4me** » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:57 pm

Thanks Yasmeen,

I will try that. I think if I can recover there, I will have a better chance of getting through the next set of crimps.

Oh...the reason I am so worried about falling etc is because I am disabled from a bad climbing accident and cannot hit my feet on anything (which is tough to control during certain falls).

I didn't used to be scared of falling At All until I shattered both my ankles and screwed up my life for good.

Post by **steep4me** » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:59 pm

OOPS

I mean, Thanks to Meadows for the specific beta and to Yasmeen for the alternative strategy!