Edelrid Eddy Belay Device

Post by **512OW** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 12:40 am

Rick is Obi-Wan Kenobi.

Post by **Liz_Weber** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 1:31 am

512OW wrote:Rick is Obi-Wan Kenobi.

Maybe more like Chewbacca!

Liz

Post by **ElectricDisciple** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 2:27 am

So the AMGA instructs its guides that when setting a tr, they are essentially free-soloing due to the inexperience of the one they are guiding.

My question is this.: (KDELAP listen up) Can an AMGA guide teach their client how to belay a leader from the ground effectively? Most of what I see is a "this is what you do" theory based teaching.

Rick's point about a $150 life / therapy / rehab saver is well taken!

Post by **bcrock** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:02 am

john e aragon wrote:I will never understand why the average climber would want such a specialized, expensive belay device.

Nobody does. All I want to do is climb and be safe. I started climbing when I was 44. I used to be competant with the ATC and thought that it would be all I would ever need. That is when I was young and inexperienced. I can release the break hand and you can too.

john e aragon wrote:With a little practice you can feed slack on one rope (1st climber) while taking slack on another rope (2nd climber). I would like to see that done with any of those devices.

I try to climb at my limit. I expect a lot from my belayer. I don't want to die and I dont want to be smashed against the rock. I also don't like to feel the rope. I'm Picky. These duties take a lot of focus. There is no way I could belay two climbers climbing at thier limit. You were probably refering to hiking or something along those lines.

Post by **Wes** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:08 am

ElectricDisciple wrote:So the AMGA instructs its guides that when setting a tr, they are essentially free-soloing due to the inexperience of the one they are guiding.

More like free soloing with rope drag. But, usually when guiding you are doing pretty easy routes.

Post by **dipsi** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:19 am

Liz_Weber wrote:
512OW wrote:Rick is Obi-Wan Kenobi.
Maybe more like Chewbacca!

Liz

Bwa ha, Princess Leah!

Post by **john e aragon** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 12:58 am

If you can not operate a device as simple as an ATC then I am not sure what say other than you can't be trusted to belay period. As for 2 climbers moving at there limits on one ATC belay, that is not exactly what I was meaning (though it can be done). A more realistic case would be 2 seconds, one resting or cleaning while the other continues to move upward.

Post by **Wes** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 3:06 am

Gri Gri can do just about anything an ATC can, and usually better. Put one in the hands of an A-Team climber, and there is nothing better. And for all the ATC is better for multi pitch, or the gri gri is too heavy, etc. There are guys in potreto doing speed accesnts with only gri gri's. You can rap the same way, or even better, simlurap. Tools are just that: tools. It is totally up to the user to make it work.

Post by **Buster** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 1:57 pm

Wes wrote:Gri Gri can do just about anything an ATC can, and usually better. Put one in the hands of an A-Team climber, and there is nothing better. And for all the ATC is better for multi pitch, or the gri gri is too heavy, etc. There are guys in potreto doing speed accesnts with only gri gri's. You can rap the same way, or even better, simlurap. Tools are just that: tools. It is totally up to the user to make it work.

Here, here...

Post by **caribe** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 2:23 pm

512OW cracked me up with the Rick Weber = Ben Kenobi comment

Rick, we think of this guy:
www.cswu.cz/obiwan/obi/ep3/06.jpg
and not this guy
www.russellwalks.com/images/swcollage9.jpg