Mixed climbing wisdom

Post by **ReachHigh** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:28 pm

Trad Racks are not that expensive. I spend twice in gas going to the red in a year then I spent for a full set of cams and odds. Plus the spirt of self protecting your self should not be lost.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:33 pm

There are few easy bolted routes because of attitudes like yours.

Post by **Wes** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:40 pm

ynot wrote:There are few easy bolted routes because of attitudes like yours.

No, the rock at the red just doesn't give up many easy face routes, and even fewer *** ones. Believe me, if there was a "motherlode" of 5.7 and under routes out there, they would have been bolted.

As for the rest, trad is trad, so sack up and get some gear if you want to do those routes. Mixed routes with just a piece or two of gear are silly to me, but whatever floats the FA's boat.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:46 pm

Wes wrote:
ynot wrote:There are few easy bolted routes because of attitudes like yours.
No, the rock at the red just doesn't give up many easy face routes, and even fewer *** ones. Believe me, if there was a "motherlode" of 5.7 and under routes out there, they would have been bolted.

As for the rest, trad is trad, so sack up and get some gear if you want to do those routes. Mixed routes with just a piece or two of gear are silly to me, but whatever floats the FA's boat.

I was thinking, just pool your gear and a buddy's. There's tons of easy trad and no crowds. I still draw from 2 racks.
You are likely right Wes. It explains why there is one here and there.
I know a bunch have gone up since we started but new areas have opened too.

Post by **Day** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:29 pm

That's some stupid shit you're talking there, wanderer. Or, to put it somewhat nicely, you've expressed an uninformed opinion. All the classic 5.7 and 5.8 trad routes in the gorge were put up by weekend warriors, in the days prior to cams, chalk, sticky rubber, or training at climbing gyms. Climbing at the gorge has been evolving just fine since those days. If today's weekend warrior can't lead 5.8 with modern shoes, gear,chalk, tape, route descriptions, etc., he needs to try a little harder, or find another sport, not bring climbing down to his or her level.

Post by **krampus** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:18 pm

well said Mr. Day

Post by **charlie** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:34 pm

I have always thought chopping bolts was stupid, especially in the Red.

That said, if any of the Small Walls, or Dip Wall, or Tower get bolted I will chop the fuck out of them.

Post by **512OW** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:42 pm

Word to that.

I'm all for completely bolting a route that takes only one or two pieces of gear. If you don't, some sportclimber idiot who sees a line of bolts is bound to get hurt someday.

I'm also all for adding a bolt or two to runout trad routes. All up to the FA.

That said, current runout trad routes should stay as they are.

And nearly ALL of the hard cracks in Red River were put up by weekend warriors.

You just need to sack up, dude.