misuse of gear
Wes and I share the same feeling. How can you loan a piece and not expect a fall? Do you loan a rope and not expect someone to tie into it? However, if the person that borrows gear damages or loses it, they should replace it.
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.
[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
I still think she used the gear for what it was intended . That's not misuse. someone in here borrowed one of my cams,took a lead fall on it and put a big ding in a lobe. It's a tiny cam . I didn't fuss. I was glad he didn't fall on my head and the piece held.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
Nope, you are just being a dumb about about it. I "intentionally" climb above borrowed gear, knowing full well that I may or may not be able to get another piece in without falling. Last year at the creak I was trying routes way over my head, and took as many falls as I do on bolts at the red, if not more. Was this inconsiderate of me? How long have you had this gear? And it has yet to take any falls? Maybe that is the real issue? That someone else was willing/able to do something you are unable to? Maybe you should thank her for actually using the gear, rather then just letting it hang in your house for people to look at? Or do you take it to the gym to show everyone how you are a cool tard climber? People with shiny gear scare me. People with mangled gear are the people I want to belay me. Personally, I will pick a flight tested, scratched up, kinked trigger wires piece before a shiny new one anytime.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
Damn Wes, I had no idea you were going to actually fall on my gear at the creek last year. The bill for replacing my old, manky ass, has taken and will take many more falls trad rack will be in the mail shortly.
Trad gear does not wear out. It may get damaged but other than that falls are good for it!
Trad gear does not wear out. It may get damaged but other than that falls are good for it!
I had a new, unused set of nuts with me one day and a friend picked up the number ten, frowned at it, and then beat it repeatedly on the rock because it was too shiney. It definitely improved its appearance. Dropping two or three (or ten) feet in a controlled manner onto a placed piece sounds to me like a smart way to learn and there is no way it hurt your gear. It's like if you loaned your bulldozer to someone and they used it to push a boulder around to learn how and then you got mad because they... used it... Yeah. Pretty lame.
[size=75]You are as bad as Alan, and even he hits the mark sometimes. -charlie
"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
Josie and BJ,
First of all, I miss you guys and the crew back East. Hope everyone is happy and healthy.
Now for the gear. Josie, taking practice falls on other folks gear is not the absolute coolest thing that a climber could do. I think that taking practice falls on your own gear is a good idea as long as the system is extremely redundant and the rock is solid. If you're not falling on gear, you're either really old school or you're climbing several grades below your potential. Taking a few practice falls is a great way to learn to trust traditional gear and push out your personal bar.
If you're a chickensh!t like me, you can just do harder and harder gear climbs until you're forced to fall. My first fall was on a 10d at Lady Slipper. Low 10 footer onto a blue TCU. IT HELD!!!!
BJ, I'm sure the gear is fine. Sounds like small falls on big gear. I've taken repeated 10 ft falls on a couple of really small HBs and they are still on my rack (after a throrough inspection, of course). I did take a nice whip on a friend's 00 TCU at T-Wall. Before I was lowered back to the ground I offered to buy a replacement... even before we noticed the axel of the cam was slightly bent. I understand your POV man.
Hope to climb with you soon.
--Mike H
First of all, I miss you guys and the crew back East. Hope everyone is happy and healthy.
Now for the gear. Josie, taking practice falls on other folks gear is not the absolute coolest thing that a climber could do. I think that taking practice falls on your own gear is a good idea as long as the system is extremely redundant and the rock is solid. If you're not falling on gear, you're either really old school or you're climbing several grades below your potential. Taking a few practice falls is a great way to learn to trust traditional gear and push out your personal bar.
If you're a chickensh!t like me, you can just do harder and harder gear climbs until you're forced to fall. My first fall was on a 10d at Lady Slipper. Low 10 footer onto a blue TCU. IT HELD!!!!
BJ, I'm sure the gear is fine. Sounds like small falls on big gear. I've taken repeated 10 ft falls on a couple of really small HBs and they are still on my rack (after a throrough inspection, of course). I did take a nice whip on a friend's 00 TCU at T-Wall. Before I was lowered back to the ground I offered to buy a replacement... even before we noticed the axel of the cam was slightly bent. I understand your POV man.
Hope to climb with you soon.
--Mike H
Never confuse having a career with having a life. --Frank Stermitz
Thanks for all your input/feedback. It seems that there are 2 type of people in trad. those that believe gear was made to be used, and those that believe "the leader must not fall/gear is for emergency use only."
Lesson Learned. When borrowing gear, make sure I'm borrowing from someone who shares my point of view.
pigsteak, thanks for the generous offer - but i'll have to decline. i seem to have a plm with falling!
Alan Evil, your post made me laugh picturing someone beating nuts to make them look better
ynot, class was one of the best investments I've done! It was just a short 3 hour class so we didn't cover all the stuff you mentioned - i'm hoping to catch craig leubben on his way through to learn more. i always thought this tard stuff was kinda silly - but turns out it's way fun!
BTW - if any new-to-trad people are reading this, Malcolm Daly will be teaching "Trad Leading for the Chicken Hearted" at the New River Rendezvous. It's a class designed for sport/gym climbers looking to get their feet wet w/trad.
Lesson Learned. When borrowing gear, make sure I'm borrowing from someone who shares my point of view.
pigsteak, thanks for the generous offer - but i'll have to decline. i seem to have a plm with falling!
Alan Evil, your post made me laugh picturing someone beating nuts to make them look better
ynot, class was one of the best investments I've done! It was just a short 3 hour class so we didn't cover all the stuff you mentioned - i'm hoping to catch craig leubben on his way through to learn more. i always thought this tard stuff was kinda silly - but turns out it's way fun!
BTW - if any new-to-trad people are reading this, Malcolm Daly will be teaching "Trad Leading for the Chicken Hearted" at the New River Rendezvous. It's a class designed for sport/gym climbers looking to get their feet wet w/trad.
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun
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danielgfolk
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Sat Jul 24, 2004 12:53 am
I am very ashamed of all the ignorant posts that have been made. BJ has the right to feel however he wants. I was trying to type a nice post that reminds people that climbing is for fun. After trying to understand the poor attitudes of those posting. Fuck your weak ass posts and ya’ll are acting like pussies and assholes. Hey everyone, is anyone willing to let me borrow their car so I can practice crashing into telephones poles, or maybe your rack so I can practice funking your gear? I doubt it, you stupid acting mean comment making fuck-heads. Next time I see any of you and here you say “takeâ€